Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Start at a notch in the overhang. Pull through the roof - hard - then climb the bold face above. © Rockfax
FA. Terry Bolger 1979.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| mr_johnso | 21 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fairly shit/ no gear after rocking onto slab & till you get onto the top ledge, by which point you may as well top out. Definately groundfall potential if you arnt comfortable on these moves. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Fairly shit/ no gear after rocking onto slab & till you get onto the top ledge, by which point you may as well top out. Definately groundfall potential if you arnt comfortable on these moves. |
||||
| steveb2006 | 26 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Crucial position in the thin crack for a finger tip or two to enable getting stood up in first break. Micro wire useful too | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Crucial position in the thin crack for a finger tip or two to enable getting stood up in first break. Micro wire useful too |
||||
| nate | 7 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Saw some bloke take a ground fall on it Sat, he was very lucky to walk away. Under grading has its faults, but this just a thin HVS 5a. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Saw some bloke take a ground fall on it Sat, he was very lucky to walk away. Under grading has its faults, but this just a thin HVS 5a. |
||||
| Tyler | 14 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Harder than 5a I'd say, can't imagine a VS climber being able to do this route. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Harder than 5a I'd say, can't imagine a VS climber being able to do this route. |
||||
| teddy | 3 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fair enough mate. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Fair enough mate. |
||||
| Stuart S | 2 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fine. Crescent Arete is HVS 5b. I still found it considerably easier than this route. I could also list all the E1s I've led this year which I found easier than this route, but what's the point? You're not going to agree with me or Simon, and we're probably not going to agree wiht you, so we'll all just have to go with whatever the consensus is with the voting system. Fact remains that personally, I found it hard for the current rockfax grade. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Fine. Crescent Arete is HVS 5b. I still found it considerably easier than this route. I could also list all the E1s I've led this year which I found easier than this route, but what's the point? You're not going to agree with me or Simon, and we're probably not going to agree wiht you, so we'll all just have to go with whatever the consensus is with the voting system. Fact remains that personally, I found it hard for the current rockfax grade. |
||||
| teddy | 1 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ever heard of widening the debate? I can refer to Paradise Wall if I want to by way of illustration. It is after all merely within one grade of our contested route. I have done a lot of VS's in my time as I am sure you have too. Thinking of tough VS's, have you ever done Samarkand at Anglesarke or Botterills Slab on Scafell - makes Jim Crow look like a walk in the park. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Ever heard of widening the debate? I can refer to Paradise Wall if I want to by way of illustration. It is after all merely within one grade of our contested route. I have done a lot of VS's in my time as I am sure you have too. Thinking of tough VS's, have you ever done Samarkand at Anglesarke or Botterills Slab on Scafell - makes Jim Crow look like a walk in the park. |
||||
| Simon Caldwell | 1 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: What's Paradise Wall got to do with it? Just because that's overgraded doesn't mean that this is. I've done a lot of VSs, and I've done this, and this is no VS. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: What's Paradise Wall got to do with it? Just because that's overgraded doesn't mean that this is. I've done a lot of VSs, and I've done this, and this is no VS. |
||||
| teddy | 30 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: No, just remember VS's are generally pretty tough compareed to Severes. Stuff like Paradise Wall just isn't VS and is better classified HS. HVS and E1's are definite steps up and should be respected as such. BTW, Whillans died in 1985 Stuart...check your facts!! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: No, just remember VS's are generally pretty tough compareed to Severes. Stuff like Paradise Wall just isn't VS and is better classified HS. HVS and E1's are definite steps up and should be respected as such. BTW, Whillans died in 1985 Stuart...check your facts!! |
||||
| Simon Caldwell | 30 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: You mean when VS was the highest grade and included everything from VS to E-something? | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: You mean when VS was the highest grade and included everything from VS to E-something? |
||||
| teddy | 29 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: I woz merely using the name Whillans to conjure up a vision of the days when VS's were as hard as nails, unlike these nancy boy slabby E1s that some people try to use to devalue these 'real mens routes'! BTW Crescent Arete is HVS 5b and not E1 (more grade inflation). | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I woz merely using the name Whillans to conjure up a vision of the days when VS's were as hard as nails, unlike these nancy boy slabby E1s that some people try to use to devalue these 'real mens routes'! BTW Crescent Arete is HVS 5b and not E1 (more grade inflation). |
||||
| Stuart S | 29 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Well I found it considerably harder than Crescent Arete. And what has Whillans etc got to do with a route that was first climbed in 1978? | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Well I found it considerably harder than Crescent Arete. And what has Whillans etc got to do with a route that was first climbed in 1978? |
||||
| Simon Caldwell | 29 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you think it's VS 4c then you're wrong. 'Grade inflation' is often just another way of saying 'grade correction'. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: If you think it's VS 4c then you're wrong. 'Grade inflation' is often just another way of saying 'grade correction'. |
||||
| teddy | 29 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: b*llocks - this used to be graded VS 4c!!! and still is in my opinion. Its comments like these that are responsible for 'grade inflation'. Just remember VS is a harsh grade...think Whillans, hemp rope, rain and hobnail boots....!! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: b*llocks - this used to be graded VS 4c!!! and still is in my opinion. Its comments like these that are responsible for 'grade inflation'. Just remember VS is a harsh grade...think Whillans, hemp rope, rain and hobnail boots....!! |
||||
| Stuart S | 28 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Felt harder than most of the E1s I've done this year, and bold too, once you're above the roof. Quite pokey. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Felt harder than most of the E1s I've done this year, and bold too, once you're above the roof. Quite pokey. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Debauchery
Grade: E1 5b ***
(High Tor)