Restricted Access

Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.

Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner. 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 May to 13 June

Reason: Other

Ring ouzels nest on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford each year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

10m.

Rockfax Description
The undercut left-hand arete of the jutting buttress has a steep start on jams and pleasant jug-hauling above. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Hatton 1963.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jon Greengrass 1 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Where do you start? direct up the jugs on the front of the buttress is easy enough but very strenuous with no gear until just under the roof, above a shocking landing. Having looked at that and not feeling strong started round to the left, where a solid locker of a jam in the break leads to good a good hold and an easier finish at about VS 4c.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Where do you start? direct up the jugs on the front of the buttress is easy enough but very strenuous with no gear until just under the roof, above a shocking landing. Having looked at that and not feeling strong started round to the left, where a solid locker of a jam in the break leads to good a good hold and an easier finish at about VS 4c.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 56
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Manchester Buttress

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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