The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents. Local residents have expressed support for continued climber access.
Dates: 21 May to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels have been reported nesting at the left hand end of Joint Effort wall. Please avoid the leftmost routes here (Wooden Leg, Xenophobia, Suspiciat) to avoid disturbing them. There are no signs up yet (as of 21/5/22) so there may be people at the crag unaware - please pass on the message if possible.
Rockfax Description
Not as hard as the name might suggest. Climb past the ancient ironwork and on up the pleasant crack to the base of a shallow groove. Balance up this using holds on the left arete and some neat footwork - poor gear. A cop-out finish can be made up Soft Times at HVS 5b. © Rockfax
FA. Paul Nunn, R.Olliphant (1 pt) 1969.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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mattdarli92 | 21 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Found good gear in the groove and easier when you know how | ||
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βeta: Found good gear in the groove and easier when you know how |
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Rob M | 4 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: It's E1. If you only use the peg just below the groove & the no'5 'ish wire at the bottom of the groove... E1 & no comfy push over like BRM. The moves are low end 5b BUT 5b none the less & the gear must've been +2.5m away at the very delicate crux section. The bottom of the route is all VS/ HVS depending on your reach & how many wires you place. A lovely line! Two loose blocks when I did it but they're well marked. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It's E1. If you only use the peg just below the groove & the no'5 'ish wire at the bottom of the groove... E1 & no comfy push over like BRM. The moves are low end 5b BUT 5b none the less & the gear must've been +2.5m away at the very delicate crux section. The bottom of the route is all VS/ HVS depending on your reach & how many wires you place. A lovely line! Two loose blocks when I did it but they're well marked. |
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OlieWhiting | 14 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: There are two loose blocks mid way up and near the top, marked with a white X. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There are two loose blocks mid way up and near the top, marked with a white X. |
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HannahParky | 14 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Fun day with olie and ffion - very cute crag dogs | ||
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βeta: Fun day with olie and ffion - very cute crag dogs |
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Glen | 1 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: I thought slightly easier than Bicycle Repair Man, but I think the top groove still warrants E1 (which is the grade give in On Peak Rock). Th number of pegs in the groove seems to vary - a long but relatively safe fall would be in the offing with none. P.S. Also better than BRM I think! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I thought slightly easier than Bicycle Repair Man, but I think the top groove still warrants E1 (which is the grade give in On Peak Rock). Th number of pegs in the groove seems to vary - a long but relatively safe fall would be in the offing with none. P.S. Also better than BRM I think! |
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Swig | 9 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: There are two pegs in the groove and at least one can be backed up. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There are two pegs in the groove and at least one can be backed up. |
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John2 | 5 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: I climbed this one again at the weekend. I must have been having a bad day when I made my previous comment. Top end HVS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I climbed this one again at the weekend. I must have been having a bad day when I made my previous comment. Top end HVS. |
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Souljah | 17 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: A very nice climb, some lovely crimps and delicate smears needed to get up the groove. A good E1? | βeta? | |
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βeta: A very nice climb, some lovely crimps and delicate smears needed to get up the groove. A good E1? |
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GrahamD | 6 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Especially with the peg in place, I didn't think the top groove was too bad. Certainly not worth E1 IMO. Good route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Especially with the peg in place, I didn't think the top groove was too bad. Certainly not worth E1 IMO. Good route. |
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John2 | 19 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Great route, but the top groove definitely puts it up to E1 in my opinion. Without the peg in place I think E2 would be deserved. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route, but the top groove definitely puts it up to E1 in my opinion. Without the peg in place I think E2 would be deserved. |
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chris sm | 24 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: The groove at the top felt a bit too tenuous for HVS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The groove at the top felt a bit too tenuous for HVS. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wildcat)