The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents. Local residents have expressed support for continued climber access.
Dates: 21 May to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels have been reported nesting at the left hand end of Joint Effort wall. Please avoid the leftmost routes here (Wooden Leg, Xenophobia, Suspiciat) to avoid disturbing them. There are no signs up yet (as of 21/5/22) so there may be people at the crag unaware - please pass on the message if possible.
Rockfax Description
A pleasant eliminate weaving up the face between Welcome and The Nails to a finish up the black slab above and left of the final groove of The Nails. © Rockfax
FA. Bill Birch, Rick Gibbon 1994. FA. (the finish as described) Bruce Goodwin, Gordon Mason 1995.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Alan James - Rockfax | 26 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Excellent route which is independent enough. Can’t see where the 5c is though so not sure why we have it at that and the votes seem to agree. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent route which is independent enough. Can’t see where the 5c is though so not sure why we have it at that and the votes seem to agree. |
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goi.ashmore | 9 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: Contrived, but the finish is quite pleasant. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Contrived, but the finish is quite pleasant. |
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Chris Craggs | 15 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: The route joins The Nails about 3m lower than shown on the topo. Chris | βeta? | |
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βeta: The route joins The Nails about 3m lower than shown on the topo. Chris |
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Katya | 14 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: Worth inclusion I'd reckon, pleasant climbing, and independant as eliminates go, except for 1 move on the Nalis where it crosses. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Worth inclusion I'd reckon, pleasant climbing, and independant as eliminates go, except for 1 move on the Nalis where it crosses. |
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roger whetton | 26 May, 2004 |
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βeta: I tried to 'weave my way' between Welcome and Nails but whilst it may have been pleasant it was barely independant in places and I certainly found no 5c move. Is it really worth recording in a selective guide? Cross Purposes is better and doesn't get a mention. The finish has frequently been used as an alternative finish to (or escape from!) The Nails and might be better described as such. Following it makes Nails an amenable HVS rather than a rather unbalanced E1. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I tried to 'weave my way' between Welcome and Nails but whilst it may have been pleasant it was barely independant in places and I certainly found no 5c move. Is it really worth recording in a selective guide? Cross Purposes is better and doesn't get a mention. The finish has frequently been used as an alternative finish to (or escape from!) The Nails and might be better described as such. Following it makes Nails an amenable HVS rather than a rather unbalanced E1. |
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Grade: E1 5c ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)