UKH

The engravings may be better than the writing, but with its blend of triumph and tragedy, the story of Whymper's five-year campaign for the first ascent of the Matterhorn is one of mountain climbing's defining narratives, says Ronald Turnbull.

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Great, thanks! Wasn't Wills on the Wetterhorn 1854 not 1844?

First ascent of the Wetterhorn was 1844 but Will's ascent in 1854 kick-started the Golden era of Alpine first ascents.

Dates transposed, should read 1865 not 1856 where you first mention Felice Gordano, Ronald.

I'm not really into reading mountaineering books, but I did read this and it's very good.

Thanks, correct both times I think. The Wetterhorn is confusing, it was presented as if a first ascent but the guides had in fact checked it out well beforehand. A bit of class prejudice there along the lines of 'the guides don't count' - prejudice that we don't find in Leslie Stephen and Alfbert Mummery however.

You're welcome. The article's not been updated, so maybe tell UKC?

Check the paragraph titled, Matterhorn 1865 Ronald 2nd para, 3 line down should obviously read 1865.

I have read extracts from Whymper's Scrambles and enjoyed it enormously. There is one paragraph that details the trouble one of the guides? has crossing a crevasse as the leading guide just glissades straight over the drop, his speed enough to carry him over. But the other guide dithers and trembles, and the others delight in his discomfort and eventual inelegant landing when he eventually summons up courage to make the leap.

But Whymper's 1865 season was an astounding achievement for the time, and not a bad season even today.

The final few pages of Scrambles Amongst the Alps remains arguably the greatest classic text in mountain literature.

As a complement to your fine article, one I wrote on Carrel’s (first Italian) ascent three days later in 1865, may be found of interested. Having a lot of maps, photos, etc. (Oops, made it sound like I wrote the article in 1865, but you know what i mean )

https://www.gordonstainforth.co.uk/the-second-ascent-of-the-matterhorn

An interesting read Gordon. I was there in 1969, but the weather conditions at the Hornli Hut prevented us from making an ascent. My next alpine partner was not keen on trying the Matterhorn, and it was only when we got back home I discovered that his partner (Tony Martindale) the previous year had been killed by a collapsing belay block on the H. ridge. That close up photo of the summit rocks is impressive. But I've always admired Bradford Washburn's stunning Matterhorn aerial photographs, capturing the incredible detail of the mountain. Thanks for posting.

Agreed - Bradford Washburn’s 1958 aerial pictures of the Matterhorn are perhaps greatest that have ever been taken - particularly the one from the south-west of the west face and Italian shoulder, with the east side enveloped in cloud. I think a 7” x 9” plate (or it may have been on extraordinary 7” wide roll film - the book I have on his photography by Antony Decaneas is a bit ambiguous.).

PS. I was very disappointed not to climb the mountain when I was 17 (with a guide - you had to be 18, but they let us do the Zinal Rothorn).