I've been able to find some good deals on new unused Camalot C4 dating from 2011 to 2016. Some came with tags, no marks on any metal, action smooth as anything....
Nylon slings look brand-new as you'd expect. No fading, abrasion etc. I'm planning to visit Canada later this year and I'll get Dark Art's to resling them with the proper BD approved double loop.
Until then... Do I resling with 1" webbing? Obviously on ratty old cams it wouldn't be a question - resling would be standard. But I feel there's a reasonable chance the old but new factory sling is stronger than newer tied webbing.
Most likely that sling is absolutely fine. I'd be astonished if it was unsafe. Maybe you could tie a loop of aramid/dyneema accessory cord (triple fisherman's, not double, or it it may slip) in addition to the nylon slings and clip both, probably psychological reinforcement rather than real
I wouldn't hesitate to climb on these as they are.
Mine are that vintage and now that it's very difficult to get them reslung from the UK, I'll be using them for a few more years yet.
They're brand new. Why would you even think about reslinging? By what mechanism could they possibly have been weakened?
Edit: The only way slings are weakened is through physical or chemical damage. As long as it's clear that neither has happened, they're as good as the new that they are. Ask yourself why there isn't a call to replace seatbelts every ten years.
100% dont need to.
Thanks everyone. I was out yesterday and placing them without any worries about sling integrity.
They don't look like they've been stored in the sunlight. I'd use them as if they were new personally.
Jk
Do check the public figures, a waterknotted 1" nylon sling is stronger than the cam !
> They're brand new. Why would you even think about reslinging? By what mechanism could they possibly have been weakened?
> Edit: The only way slings are weakened is through physical or chemical damage. As long as it's clear that neither has happened, they're as good as the new that they are. Ask yourself why there isn't a call to replace seatbelts every ten years.
I'm much in agreement with the other comments and would be happy using it, however BD put a maximum lifespan of 10 years on their cam slings so it's not a completely stupid question. Rightly or wrongly, the manufacturere would suggest that was retired or reslung. Seatbelts deteriorate with age as well, its paid attention to more in race settings and on child seats.
> Seatbelts deteriorate with age as well, its paid attention to more in race settings and on child seats.
Seatbelts deteriorate with exposure to UV, not just "with age".
I don't think water knot is a great idea, need constant checking
https://youtu.be/mXe-8GmS08k?si=4_TXXc7mR6OAklUO
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_knot#:~:text=According%20to%20Walter%....
> BD put a maximum lifespan of 10 years on their cam slings.
A manufacturer's life expectancy surely will be derived based on the assumption that the cams will receive at least light usage during that time. Remaining sealed in the packet for that duration certainly wouldn't count as light usage, and unless somebody could come up with a reason why any degradation at all could happen while still packaged as new, I'd have no issues at all with treating them as new. To do otherwise would seem to me to be pretty bonkers level concervative thinking.
This also comes from the fact they are required by EU law to give a product lifetime* and that "storage" is uncontrolled so the manufacturers' are nervous to say "it will last forever if stored correctly". Sat on display in a climbing shop pre sale is not in a cool dry dark place!
They are torn between being prescriptive and allowing people to think for themselves. Do they trust us?!
* I am aware of the arguments as to whether it does or doesn't explicitly say you need to give a product lifetime but am also sympathetic to manufacturers who don't want to leave themselves exposed.
I wouldn't blame the manufacturers - not in all cases anyway. My gripe would be with people who aren't prepared to think for themselves and who blindly adhere to manufacturer's pronouncements regardless of clearly exceptional circumstances.
On the one hand I do think people should think for themselves but on the other hand I hear tales of people drying canyoning harnesses in the sun everyday and feel people should be protected from their own decisions......
> A manufacturer's life expectancy surely will be derived based on the assumption that the cams will receive at least light usage during that time. Remaining sealed in the packet for that duration certainly wouldn't count as light usage, and unless somebody could come up with a reason why any degradation at all could happen while still packaged as new, I'd have no issues at all with treating them as new. To do otherwise would seem to me to be pretty bonkers level concervative thinking.
Most lifespan recommendations I see from manufacturers will give you some guidance on age vs wear and the maximum lifespans are often assuming the product has not been used and has been stored correctly. One of my harnesses for example has a table running from never used (10 years) to almost daily (less than 1 year). We recently had to throw out 10 mountain bike helmets, still in their packaging because they had reached the 3 year life span (or 5 I can't recall) the manufacturer set before we got them into use. I would wear one myself, however the foam will have deteriorated to some degree and who are we to put a customer in one and say it's safe?
This is the text I was referring to from the camelot manual: "Inspect your gear before and after each use, and retire it when it fails inspection or when it reaches its maximum lifespan, even if unused and properly stored".
I don't think anyone is suggesting it would be unsafe to use, just that you should buy a new one after 10 years! It is unfortunate, because if you use equipment for work, then you are taking a risk by deciding to ignore the manufacturers decision on lifespan. Most people don't care if it's yours and your partners own personal use, however I think attitudes tend to trickle down from industry to the public and I wouldn't be surprised if in 10 years time, having a climbing partner turn up with software that is over 10 years old might be a problem for some people, regardless of condition.
> I don't think anyone is suggesting it would be unsafe to use, just that you should buy a new one after 10 years!
That's what I was referring to when I was talking about bonkers level conservative thinking!
That is pretty normal for most slung climbing protection no?
I'd use 1" nylon as that is what BD recommended on their webpage discussing reslinging camalots. According to their webpage, a 1" tied sling 'will work' but would be inferior to the double layered tuck that the factory sling has.
> They're brand new. Why would you even think about reslinging? By what mechanism could they possibly have been weakened?
Sunlight? You have no way of knowing how they have been stored. Resling with dyneema on a triple fishermans and your'e good to go.
Tape used for climbing gear has been required to be UV-stabilised since the 80s.
If you’re still anxious about them then maybe a Riesling would be more helpful.