UKC

Newstones,above Rhynose is the boulder called the Dyke,in BMC guide.

Arm Candy V6/7

The problem is right of the 2 easy layback flakes.Avoid the obvious protrusions for feet.Crimp/sloper for right hand then looong reach
for 2 fingertip pocket with left;feet on smears then awful crimps and slopers over the top.The low breaks for feet are in.

No mat used,but 2 coiled ropes were.Enjoy.

Mitch

In reply to paul mitchell:

hi Paul. I will give this a go tomorrow night-nice to have a go at some new stuff-will get back with my thoughts.....

In reply to paul mitchell: wondered if we had done it before.so gone up with the dog,yeah we had,just went from startin hand hold up to top sloper next to pocket then stood on starting hand holds.about v3

In reply to paul mitchell: V3 it aint.Not unless you are very tall.If you avoid the obvious chicken head type hand and footholds.Mitch

In reply to paul mitchell: I'm 6-3" but you have to try really hard to eliminate the vein.my friend did it 1st go last night and said its better the old way,as eliminating the vien was the hardest part.I don't think neil pearson will be ringing for an exclusive.

In reply to paul mitchell:

Was it damp when you tried it? It's plastered in chalk. Thought about V3 too avoiding all protrusions and flakes etc.

2 ropes....Newstones :o0

Hi guys, I am the friend Mark is referring to.

I guess I bagged myself a second accent... woohoo
No offence Paul but its not a very good problem, very illiminate which is strange for grit.
Its basicly a excersise in topping-out, no harder than V3. sorry

In reply to paul mitchell:

Also, the forum guidelines specifically say that you can talk about anything 'bouldering' on this forum so long as it doesn't involve a rope - you used two!

Moderators!!!

In reply to andi turner:

I'll have a go. If I can do it it's V3 tops!

In reply to paul mitchell:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,1942.msg276795.html#msg276795

What the f**k is going on with your tick marks dude. I heard you've done worse at the newstones.

In reply to Gorilla:

Pretty grim, eh! Stands out a mile.

In reply to andi turner:

Awful

In reply to Gorilla: Major crime!Call the bouldering police!Let's all conform to the rules shall we now....
It rains,chalk washes off,end of.

Mitch

In reply to paul mitchell:
I don't think grafitti on the crags is okay, even if it is only semi-temporary. Leaving a mess like that is not maintaining climbings place as a non-conformist pursuit.

In reply to andy reeve: Climbing is neither conformist nor non conformist.I think a lot of chalk looks good;you don't.Marking holds means that one falls off less.Falling off and repeated tries means more injuries.

Telling people how to express themselves while bouldering is trying to make them conform to some concensus view.Like I said,the rain washes it off.How much chalk have you left on the rock during your climbing?

Mitch

In reply to paul mitchell:

It really isn't a question of conformity. Coating rock in chalk for the sake of it 'looking good' is unaccceptable. Have some respect for the countryside you muppet.

In reply to paul mitchell:


http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=50009
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53014
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=404148

Excessive chalking, and ticking is unacceptable. Remember we have no right to be there. Our presence is permitted, that's all. It a privilege which can be taken away very swiftly. The BMC spend hours, days, months, and even years securing access and sometimes buying crags outright in order to maintain access. Irresponsible use of the land (and everything which is in it) can destroy those often tenuous agreements. What if the landowners decided they don't want any more climbers on Stanage, or Froggatt? It's perfectly within their rights.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/gallery1.asp?galleryid=24

In reply to paul mitchell:

what is eliminating holds doing then?
especially a fearure like that,which is rare on grit
you should be embracing the ruggosites,not covering them in chalk and missing them out

In reply to paul mitchell:

We have no right to be there?Let's all doff our caps.
There was plenty of chalk on Newstones on other problems.The offwidth prob is on the far end of Ramshaw where few walkers go.
I no longer use a brush ,in general,but use a rag for cleaning.
These were new probs and not old ones.I guess some of you puppies don't know the difference that makes to one's ego.
What does a landowner find more annoying, teams of boulderers marching across the moor with their mats,or a bit of chalk that washes off?

Having said that,will clean some chalk off in future,sometimes.Now you holy sages can rest a bit easier.Must be a new route name in here somewhere.....

In reply to paul mitchell:

I have to get behind Paul on this one....im sure some/all of you guys have been on T crack at Cratcliffe-is THAT amount of chalk ok?????

I feel that before you all start your berating of Paul-think about the chalk you have left yourself-and as well, isn't it good that people are looking for new things to climb, save the wear and tear of the usual problems, especially at soft places like Newstones.

And the grade... haven't we all over graded things? That's the thing with new problems-you set a grade, it gets repeats, and then settle down?

Get yourselves to Gib Tor like we did today.......and of course leave that chalk bag at home....i don't think so!!!

keep exploring Paul.

In reply to paul mitchell:

Paul - yes, there isn't a set of "rules" as such for this kind of thing but I'd recommend a look over the BMC Bouldering "Commandments" - not hard and fast rules but in the abscence of a set of personal ethics this'd do:

http://www.climbingworks.com/download/files/10commandments_poster.pdf

"Minimise Chalk Use - brush away any excessive buildup".

End, as you say, of.

In reply to tommytwotone:

Lets forget about this and go put a top rope on piece of mind and polish those smears a bit more or go lead Via dolorosa or Crack and corner thats not quite shiny enough yet. or go to the uppermost outcrop at newstones and put some more chalk on that.

Every body is guilty at something when they go climbing / bouldering so to single someone out because they put a new problem ( or what was thought to be new ) on UKC and used some chalk to mark bits of the rock seems a bit daft .

Or we could all lite our torch's and sharpen the pitch forks and have ourselves a hangin

In reply to llanberis36:

No one is suggesting that T-crack covered in chalk is okay either. Of course anyone who uses any chalk leaves some behind, but its a matter of degree. Using the least you can, and (gently) brushing off what you can is far better for both friction and aesthetics.

IRT: Pauldr
Again, any climbing is going to leave some trace. Getting to the crag is going to cause pollution, walking in will leave footprints and using chalk will leave its trace. But that doesn't mean we shouldn't aim to minimise our impact. Part of that is firmly pointing out where others are blatantly failing at this.

In reply to andy reeve: have a look at the present or the previous bmc Roaches area guide to Newstones.The photo shows it caked in chalk.

Mitch

In reply to paul mitchell:
>

Doesn't make it acceptable though. There's also chips all over some crags, but that does not justify further chipping. We should be minimising our impact, not using the misguided actions of others to justify treating these places disrespectfully.
I see loads of people outside now who are new to bouldering, probably as a result of indoor walls. A lot of these people are yet to learn the subtlties of bouldering etiquette (you see lots of dirty boots making a mess of problems, for instance). If people who have been active in the Peak for as long as you cannot act as a role model to new comers, then there's little hope of preserving the beauty of these places for future generations. I hope there's enough people who get it to offset people who refust to.

In reply to paul mitchell:

Chalk building up in popular problems is one thing. It isn't good, but at least it's accidental. Deliberately slapping loads of chalk on a new problem (assuming it is a new problem of course) in the form of detailed tick marks (especially marking excluded holds) is like a dog pissing on a lamp post. That washes off too, of course.

In reply to paul mitchell:

Well done for confirming you are a class A dick.

In reply to Gorilla:

Big words for someone posting anonymously and without a profile. You must feel very brave indeed.

Phil Kelly

In reply to RockArchivist:

Ha ha u are funny! I'm not allowed to state I think someone who covers stuff in riduculous tick marks and is proud of the fact that they don't give a shit, a dick ?
And I'm told this by someone with an anomonous nickname who chooses this post to sign it in order to gain moral superiority
your a joke dude

Dan Hutch Sheffield, down the works on Tuesdays and Thursdays

In reply to Gorilla: youtube.com/watch?v=bv4U9cFrnCI&

In reply to Gorilla:

Did you not read - I posted my name and it's not a secret is it? Just shows how much you actually read what's in front of you. Get real. I don't need moral superiority. You obviously need to show you (mistakenly) think you have some.

Do you have issues?


Phil Kelly

In reply to RockArchivist:

U obviously can't read posts. But keep going man u funny!!