UKH

I know most of the 'experts' turn their noses up at the Hornli Ridge, but what gear should I take?

Should I take a walking axe or technical axe?

Is there much natural protection for Slings?

Will I need a rack/ nuts etc?

Whats the in situ tat like, will I need to take a load of spare prussik cord?

Any other advice most welcome!

In reply to THE.WALRUS:

depends if your using a guide or not, if you are he will place and take all the gear you need. ive been up twice with guides and when they checked out my kit the were throwing things out of my pack repeating "you wont need this, you wont need that" bit like a sketch out of a cartoon.

travel light, its a sprint.

Did this last September, unguided.

I would take one shortish axe and decent boots + crampons, a very light rack plus a couple of slings - there's masses of fixed gear.

The most important thing is to move fast! Take plenty of water as well, it's a long day out.

Peter

In reply to THE.WALRUS: Wow Its been 13 years! There is no water on the route. The Guides leave EARLY with clients. We were last on the hill started up at 10Am or so to miss out on the cluster. BAD Move! Descending masses hit us at two thirds height. Best just to get in early with the crowd and move along with them. We brought no pro just a few crabs and slings. 1 technical axe. There was a pitch, I think just above the Refugio, that I wished I had a small cam or two. Dealing with the masses will be the crux of the climb. Have Fun, Ron

In reply to THE.WALRUS:

It doesn't really matter what kind of ice-axe you have. You'll probably only need it on a short section above the fixed ropes leading to the summit so keep it small + light. Carry it inside your sack if you can. You might well choose to use your crampons for longer, and they will take quite a beating.

Most of the fixed gear is iron rings/stakes. There is quite a lot of this on the upper section. Probably a good isea to take a couple of cams and 3/4 wires in case you get into trouble, but you shouldn't need to use them much - if at all - if you have the skills to climb the route. A few slings are always a good idea. Good ropework is crucial on this route, especially since you will probably have to deal wth quite a few ropes other than your own. Keep it simple.

Enjoy yourself. It's a great climb but somewhat spoiled by the crowds and the fixed gear.

In reply to THE.WALRUS: the guided groups get up at 3 am. If you can make sure your water is ready the night before (all water at the Hornli hut has to be boiled) you could try starting an hour or two before them. You can easily climb the first section in the dark You won't get much sleep anyway. The Hornli hut is a dump, imho.

In reply to THE.WALRUS:

Thanks all - top advice.

Is spending a night in the Solvay Hut an option? Or a major faux-par??

In reply to THE.WALRUS:

major faux-pas. You'd have to carry all your kit up there and it's a bit of a dump. It's only considered an emergency shelter and the wrath of the hut guardian will come down on you hard if you use it when it's not an emergency. He'll also make you cough up a load of Swiss Francs.

In reply to THE.WALRUS:

I would recomend your normal gear for the alps,a red sleeping bag stuff sac over your head,and nothing else on.

Light is right you know it works

Make sure you take your star map.

Hope this helps

x x

In reply to THE.WALRUS: You really shouldn't sleep at the Solvay other than in an emergency.

Apparently a crash pad is all you need - see the bottom of this thread http://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/t.php?t=309770

In reply to Big Jonnie:

Thanks Big Johnnie.

I think you need to get back in the Sauna to sweat those moobs off.