UKH

Hello, 

I’m looking for some places in the Peak District to practice abseil rigging. I’d like to start off with some slabs progressing to more inclined walls. Suggestions welcomed.

Thanks, 

Joe

Lawrencefield is the obvious one. There’s a spot often used by groups that doesn’t block off any climbing areas. It’s either vertical or slightly overhanging though.

I'd pick a crag that seldom has climbers on it. We'd often practice rigging stuff as we progressed at Wharncliffe, making sure we played around on areas away from the classics. There's a tall area next to the Hells Gate section that doesn't have routes on it. We've practiced climbing the rope with prussiks and cravasse rescue stuff there but with a back up rope on the first couple of goes to make sure we don't have accidents.

If youre entirely new to setting up abs, just make sure theres one proper bomb proof anchor that you can use with a back up (tree/lasso a boulder etc). Doesnt have to be integral to the anchors your tying/practicing on. I'm sure you've though of this, but I wouldnt want someone having a difficulty. It also offers confidence to actually ab on the anchors youve practised on. 

We always ran the "if you built the ab, you're the first one down" kind of approach. That can improve clarity of thought when building. 

Probably teaching you to suck eggs, but ya know, we're a community and all. 

Thanks, Stephen. I know of the place, but never been.

Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll also add to the list. 

Never turn down good advice. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

I first learnt to abseil on the West Buttress of Cloggy. I learnt pretty fast too, circa 1969!

But if we’re honest, that probably wouldn’t be described as best practice. Mine was similar with the rope between the legs and round the shoulder on the milestone buttress.

I think it might work better the other way round... If you kill yourself it's quick, killing a mate you're stuck with for life.

Birchen is easy to access with a variety of walls and awkward-ish anchors to practice with, i’d be tempted to go there.

Should be quiet enough on a week day or evening,

That's Lawrencefield in the quarry by the road (left as you walk in) not where the pool is...

If you go to Lawrence field do not use the regular spot in the first bay used by ignorant instructors who pick the easiest set up and ignore the instructors guidelines. It is a steep wall with two e grades up it. The constant abseiling is wearing the holds away as they are not very big. There are plenty of places around to ab without wrecking routes!

Only deviated from this once, in a hailstorm on granite slabs. My more experienced partner wanted to abseil from a horrible rounded mini-lump about 2cm high; I wanted to try to traverse into the unknown in the rapidly gathering darkness and look for a better anchor. I only complied after he agreed to let me go first and to keep his foot firmly on the rope behind the mini-lump while I was abseiling (not that it would probably have helped). He set the abseil up, and we both got down safely. Hard as nails, was Krzyszek; he came from the great school of Polish winter mountaineers. You live (sometimes only just!) and learn.

Cheers. Thanks for the suggestion.

Nobody should ever practise abseiling down existing rock climbs. 

Interesting all the downvotes, do people genuinely think they would take more care over a belay for themselves than one for a partner?

I find keeping my partner safe a bigger motivator to add another piece than myself, and looking back at my life I think it's always been the case. 

Back when I was an idiot in a car, I used to enjoy showing off to mates but only so far; I'd definitely push it harder when I was alone in the car. Even when I had the crash that slowed me down, it was the thought of hurting someone else on the road that did it, not myself.

The biggest ever motivator to take additional care for me was setting up a top-rope for a friend's son to climb on. You wouldn't think it was possible to place that many pieces of gear for one belay.