How many times have you driven north on the M6, and as you've neared Tebay, marvelled at the magnificent elephantine bulges and ridges of the Howgill Fells to the east of the motorway? And how many times have you made the detour from Tebay junction to explore these wonderful fells? If the answer is 'many times' to the first question, and 'never' to the second then you are just one of thousands of hillwalkers who really ought to go and discover one of the not-so-hidden gems of the North of England. This circuit around Carlingill Beck takes in Uldale Head and Fell Head, and has to be among the finest walks for views anywhere.
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SD6244399602 Walk down the road northwards towards Carlingill Bridge. Just before the bridge you'll see a path on the right. Follow this on the south bank of the beck, until a crossing point via rocks just below a deep pool. Follow the north bank of the beck to cross Weasel Gill (easier than Carlingill Beck) to the foot of a ridge next to a sheep fold.
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SD6277299782 A path climbs up the ridge to the left or right of the sheep fold, zigzagging steeply, but soon taking you clear of the bracken-covered lower slopes. As you gain height the path brings you close to the upper section of Weasel Gill. The path goes east here to a point close to the top of the gill and crosses to the other bank. At this point keep to the south bank and leave the path, climbing grassy slopes over pathless terrain. You'll soon pick up a quad bike track high on Uldale Head's north-west ridge. Follow this to the summit cairn.
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NY6399100040 The south-east ridge of Uldale Head is a delightful grassy walk with fine views across to the deep ravines of Black Force in Little Ulgill Beck, and Great Ulgill Beck. The path leads down the ridge, becoming a bit vague and hard to follow lower down, but you'll soon find yourself on the col at Blakethwaite Bottom.4
SD6475199600 Go southwards across the flat col to cross above the lower gorge. There's a path that crosses the lower section of Great Ulgill Beck. Cross here, then climb southwards up the broad grassy ridge of Ulgill Rigg. Higher up you'll pick up a path that takes you to the ridge of Fell Head. The summit of Fell Head lies along the ridge to the right, and is a magnificent viewpoint for the Howgill Fells, and across in the Lake District.
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SD6496198186 From the summit of Fell Head a good path descends to the north-west and takes you easily downhill, over a knoll at 500m, then down again and back to your car near Carlingill Bridge.
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Difficulty: ModerateDistance: 4.90 miles (7.89 km)
Total ascent: 585m
Time: 3 – 4 hours (Walking)
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Additional Information
Start/Finish:Roadside parking just south of Carlingill Bridge, SD624996
Nearest town:
Sedbergh, Kirkby Stephen, or Penrith
Terrain:
A river crossing early on is usually straightforward in normal conditions, then a steep zigzag climb leads up to Uldale Head. Beyond it's grassy slopes all round, never too boggy, but requiring a bit of navigation off path at times.
Seasonal variations:
Carlingill Beck may be impassable after heavy rain. The north bank of the beck has collapsed into the stream, so you do have to start on the south side and cross over.
Weather and Hill Conditions: mwis: Lake District – Met Office: Yorkshire Dales
Public transport:
None to the start of this walk, which is perhaps ironic given the presence of the motorway and mainline rail nearby.
Maps:
OS Explorer OL19 (1:25,000), OS Landranger 97 (1:50,000), OS Landranger 91 (1:50,000) Directory Listings:
Find more Listings near this route Tourist info:
Sedbergh (015396 20125); Killington Lake (015396 20138); Kendal (0153 979 516)
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by GrahamUney
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Thanks for this Graham.
I've lost count of the number of times I've been driving home up the M6 and looked over at that western flank of the Howgills and thought it looked brilliant. I've never yet done a detour to find out. But that clearly ought to change.
Take care on your approach from the M6. The lanes leading to Carlingill are some of the narrowest, windy beggars going. If you pass over the Crook of Lune bridge even small cars just have inches either side. There are always fresh scrape marks on the parapets.
I too have spent over three decades driving past these hills and thinking "ooh, must go up those one day". Yep, never have.