5c,5b

*** The pillar that formed the start of this route has reported to have fallen down ***

Please submit any feedback on the original route here.

There is an alternative climbed by Ollie Burrows and Paul O'Neill at E4 6a:

Start at the right hand end of the pedestal moving up the slight rib to
reach a shale band break (gear). Step up and then left to reach a peg. Make
hard moves on undercuts to get stood up in the break and then make a long
reach right to an obvious hold (crux). Pull steeply up the wall trending
slightly right to reach what was the pillar. This is where the original
route of Captain Beaky is still intact and this can be followed as per the
route description in the guidebook.

Ticklists

Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
plant_based_tommo 13 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The 2 peg belay, whilst not completey awful, didnt inspire much confidence. Much better to continue to the bolted lower off atop perfume garden p2
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The 2 peg belay, whilst not completey awful, didnt inspire much confidence. Much better to continue to the bolted lower off atop perfume garden p2

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 1
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Run for Home

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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