There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
An exciting route across the left-hand side of the roof. Climb the slab to the curving flake in the overhang, then using fat jams (large cam protection) trend to the right to finish just right of the nose on good holds. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson 1978.
Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Stanage Popular , The Gary Gibson Stranglers Playlist , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Pythonist | 22 Feb, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Didn't find this too much more difficult than FDB, didn't use jams, and thought it was as good as FBD... Great roof route with good moves, and a bit wild. Would love to try Flying Butt now, just for the finale! | ||
Show beta
βeta: Didn't find this too much more difficult than FDB, didn't use jams, and thought it was as good as FBD... Great roof route with good moves, and a bit wild. Would love to try Flying Butt now, just for the finale! |
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nate | 17 Sep, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Much harder then FBD maybe because im short? Nice tho... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Much harder then FBD maybe because im short? Nice tho... |
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Peter Rhodes | 29 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: I found this considerably harder than Flying Buttress Direct, I get the feeling that this is the real 5b. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I found this considerably harder than Flying Buttress Direct, I get the feeling that this is the real 5b. |
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UKB Shark | 1 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Searched in vain for the fist jams - quite disappointed not find them in a strange way. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Searched in vain for the fist jams - quite disappointed not find them in a strange way. |
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Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stanage North)