Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the central chimney then traverse the break leftwards where a tricky mantelshelf leads to a delicate finish. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1979.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Eastern Grit E1s

Feedback

User Date Notes
EA_Mountain_Skills 8 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: No less than four pieces of good gear in the hand traverse. Expect small footholds.
Show beta
βeta: No less than four pieces of good gear in the hand traverse. Expect small footholds.
LMS 22 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Run out...happy to be second!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Run out...happy to be second!
climberchristy 21 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good moves. The Rockfax description of 'trivial' is unfair. It's got very good moves on it albeit they are admittedly short-lived. Also it's tricky for 5b if you can't reach the good pocket and with gear below feet.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good moves. The Rockfax description of 'trivial' is unfair. It's got very good moves on it albeit they are admittedly short-lived. Also it's tricky for 5b if you can't reach the good pocket and with gear below feet.
Dave Garnett 26 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: It is 5c if you're short. But then lots of things are, and you can just escape off right after the crux if you can't reach. Seems a bit trivial and artificial for a star, to be honest.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It is 5c if you're short. But then lots of things are, and you can just escape off right after the crux if you can't reach. Seems a bit trivial and artificial for a star, to be honest.
Ropeboy 26 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree with the reach thing. I couldn't reach the pocket and it's a very hard pull, worth at least 5c. I got Satin 2nd go but couldn't do the 5b move!?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd agree with the reach thing. I couldn't reach the pocket and it's a very hard pull, worth at least 5c. I got Satin 2nd go but couldn't do the 5b move!?
Jon Greengrass 4 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Its lonely up there with your feet in the break. delightful climbing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Its lonely up there with your feet in the break. delightful climbing
Nick Smith - Climbers 21 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree - at 5'10" I could reach the good pocket, but if you are much shorter you have to do a considerably harder move!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd agree - at 5'10" I could reach the good pocket, but if you are much shorter you have to do a considerably harder move!

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 58
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Original Route Direct Start

Grade: E1 5b ***
(High Tor)

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