There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb the central chimney then traverse the break leftwards where a tricky mantelshelf leads to a delicate finish. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson 1979.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Eastern Grit E1s
User | Date | Notes | ||
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EA_Mountain_Skills | 8 Feb, 2023 |
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βeta: No less than four pieces of good gear in the hand traverse. Expect small footholds. | ||
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βeta: No less than four pieces of good gear in the hand traverse. Expect small footholds. |
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LMS | 22 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Run out...happy to be second! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Run out...happy to be second! |
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climberchristy | 21 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Good moves. The Rockfax description of 'trivial' is unfair. It's got very good moves on it albeit they are admittedly short-lived. Also it's tricky for 5b if you can't reach the good pocket and with gear below feet. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Good moves. The Rockfax description of 'trivial' is unfair. It's got very good moves on it albeit they are admittedly short-lived. Also it's tricky for 5b if you can't reach the good pocket and with gear below feet. |
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Dave Garnett | 26 May, 2004 |
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βeta: It is 5c if you're short. But then lots of things are, and you can just escape off right after the crux if you can't reach. Seems a bit trivial and artificial for a star, to be honest. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It is 5c if you're short. But then lots of things are, and you can just escape off right after the crux if you can't reach. Seems a bit trivial and artificial for a star, to be honest. |
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Ropeboy | 26 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: I'd agree with the reach thing. I couldn't reach the pocket and it's a very hard pull, worth at least 5c. I got Satin 2nd go but couldn't do the 5b move!? | βeta? | |
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βeta: I'd agree with the reach thing. I couldn't reach the pocket and it's a very hard pull, worth at least 5c. I got Satin 2nd go but couldn't do the 5b move!? |
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Jon Greengrass | 4 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: Its lonely up there with your feet in the break. delightful climbing | βeta? | |
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βeta: Its lonely up there with your feet in the break. delightful climbing |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 21 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree - at 5'10" I could reach the good pocket, but if you are much shorter you have to do a considerably harder move! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I'd agree - at 5'10" I could reach the good pocket, but if you are much shorter you have to do a considerably harder move! |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(High Tor)