Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points) This restriction has been lifted for 2024 as of 27th May
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
This thuggy climb tackles the steep curving crack to the right of the corner of Desire. Although the difficult section isn't that long, it does pack a lot in. Start as for Desire, to the ledge beneath the corner. From the right-hand end of the ledge, launch up the crack. Can be started from Charisma to make a decent longer line at no increase in grade. © Rockfax
FA. A.Evans, N.Siddiqui, R.Thomas Apr/1980.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
John Alcock | 25 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Don't try this route with a hangover. It needs a bit of go. Start is revolting. Better to abseil in. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Don't try this route with a hangover. It needs a bit of go. Start is revolting. Better to abseil in. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Carreg-y-Barcud Area)