The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.
Reason: Nesting Birds
2024 - IMPORTANT NEW UPDATE: The whole crag restriction is back in force (5pm 9th May). After lifting the restriction yesterday, the Peregrines were unfortunately observed to be significantly disturbed by the presence of climbers even well away from the restricted area. Thus Natural England have changed the signs on site and the whole crag is likely to remain restricted for the rest of the breeding season.
Rockfax Description
1) 5a, 22m. Start at a shallow groove to the left of the toe of the buttress. Climb this to enter the awkward left-facing groove above. Follow the continuation groove to the terrace and a belay.
2) 4c, 24m. Follow Mealy Bugs, but once in the scoop, traverse round the arete and finish up the wide crack that lurks there. This is awkward to start but soon eases. © Rockfax
FA. Bob Dearman, Rod Brown 1965.
Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Alkis | 19 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: I can deal with polish, I can deal with loose rock and I can deal with vegetation. All three at the same time? No. The climb, in its current state, is awful. It could be a significant effort to clean. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I can deal with polish, I can deal with loose rock and I can deal with vegetation. All three at the same time? No. The climb, in its current state, is awful. It could be a significant effort to clean. |
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Jon Stewart | 4 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not sure, but I think either the description or the grade is wrong here. On the second pitch, I went left of the steep groove, which apart from looking about 5b was covered in bird poo. This followed an obvious line (Mealybugs) and led to a step right to the peg. On Peak Rock gives the second pitch 5b (presumably up the steep groove described here), and I can't see how this could be downgraded to 4c. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Not sure, but I think either the description or the grade is wrong here. On the second pitch, I went left of the steep groove, which apart from looking about 5b was covered in bird poo. This followed an obvious line (Mealybugs) and led to a step right to the peg. On Peak Rock gives the second pitch 5b (presumably up the steep groove described here), and I can't see how this could be downgraded to 4c. |
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Grade: VS 5a ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)