From the head of the Malte Brun Glacier go up loose gullies to small snowfield then up rock to join the ridge just before the narrow "Cheval". Alternatively climb the rock rib from the col between the Malte Brun and Bonney Glaciers. Both routes are exposed but not difficult (NZ Grade 3). Often descended, abseiling down the gullies just after the Cheval.

L Earle, Freda Du Faur, P Graham 1910.

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