Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
A good line, spoilt only by some suspect rock in its first half. Head up the groove to the small triangular roof, traverse left and finish up the rib above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start down and right of Gethsemane at two grooves. Climb the left-hand groove to below a triangular overhang, hand traverse left and finish up the rib above the overhang. Some loose rock.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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John1458 | 3 Nov, 2023 |
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βeta: Beware large loose block 3 metres below the small roof. Felt like it would come away easily when level with chest, but too large to risk pulling off that way. Couldn\'t get quite enough leverage once above it to remove. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Beware large loose block 3 metres below the small roof. Felt like it would come away easily when level with chest, but too large to risk pulling off that way. Couldn't get quite enough leverage once above it to remove. |
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badgerjockey | 2 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: Some of these deathblocks need trundling | βeta? | |
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βeta: Some of these deathblocks need trundling |
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NathanP | 5 May, 2023 |
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βeta: A very loose rock in the corner line, helpfully marked with a white cross. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A very loose rock in the corner line, helpfully marked with a white cross. |
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JackRDFC | 17 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Several prominent loose rocks to avoid | βeta? | |
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βeta: Several prominent loose rocks to avoid |
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Grade: HS 4a ***
(Trial Wall Area)