UKH Hills - 'In Memoriam'

60m, 3 pitches. This climb was put up by David Bailey and Rob Shimwell in memory of Tony Booth who climbed here. A steep and direct line up the crag.
A fine route but not very direct. The old guide had a poor description and the new has merely copied it over. Start on the grassy shoulder right and up from Thumbelina. P1, 5a: Climb up to an undercut right facing corner in the slab right of Thumbelina. Go up the corner and then cross Thumbelina by a small tree and climb the wall above direct to a grassy bay with a steep left wall. P2, 5c: Climb on to a ledge below the left wall and go direct up the wall on small edges and pockets with spaced protection to a thin crack. Follow this up and left to easier ground. Up this to a grassy ledge and 6m right along this to belay by a rock cone below a steep corner and an off width overhanging crack. P3, 5b: Bold pumpy and mossy climbing up the overhanging corner to a sloping heathery finish. The overhanging crack was also postulated as a finish in the guide - neither option was given a technical grade which suggests it wasn't checked!

David Bailey and Rob Shimwell 08/Aug/1976.

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User	Date		Notes
Mike Hammill	20 May	Show βeta βeta: A fine route. The old guide had a poor description and the new has merely copied it over. Start on the grassy shoulder right and up from Thumbelina. P1, 5a: Climb up to an undercut right facing corner in the slab right of Thumbelina. Go up the corner and then cross Thumbelina by a small tree and climb the wall above direct to a grassy bay with a steep left wall. P2, 5c: Climb on to a ledge below the left wall and go direct up the wall on small edges and pockets with spaced protection to a thin crack. Follow this up and left to easier ground. Up to a grassy ledge and right 6 m to belay by a rock cone below a steep corner and an off width overhanging crack. P3, 5b: Bold pumpy and mossy climbing up the overhanging corner to a sloping heathery finish. The overhanging crack was also postulated as a finish in the guide - neither option was given a technical grade which suggests it wasn't checked! Pitch 2 is E2 alone and is a grade harder than the superb Skerryvor. Pitch 3 is also harder than Skerryvor.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A fine route. The old guide had a poor description and the new has merely copied it over. Start on the grassy shoulder right and up from Thumbelina. P1, 5a: Climb up to an undercut right facing corner in the slab right of Thumbelina. Go up the corner and then cross Thumbelina by a small tree and climb the wall above direct to a grassy bay with a steep left wall. P2, 5c: Climb on to a ledge below the left wall and go direct up the wall on small edges and pockets with spaced protection to a thin crack. Follow this up and left to easier ground. Up to a grassy ledge and right 6 m to belay by a rock cone below a steep corner and an off width overhanging crack. P3, 5b: Bold pumpy and mossy climbing up the overhanging corner to a sloping heathery finish. The overhanging crack was also postulated as a finish in the guide - neither option was given a technical grade which suggests it wasn't checked! Pitch 2 is E2 alone and is a grade harder than the superb Skerryvor. Pitch 3 is also harder than Skerryvor.