Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb into a small recess then make difficult moves to the ledge. The thin crack on the left is well battered but a discreet wire to the right protects moves on slopers to easy ground - varied.
Going right over the top roof is The El Cap Finish, E2 5b. © Rockfax
FA. Alan Clarke 1965.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide) , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cake | 10 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pretty decent friend above and right of the ledge | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Pretty decent friend above and right of the ledge |
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| Joe Costello | 14 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Quite easy for E2 but probably about right I suppose with the mid-heigth crack getting a bit worn. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Quite easy for E2 but probably about right I suppose with the mid-heigth crack getting a bit worn. |
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| Nige M | 5 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is good gear on the right side of the slab before you make any hard moves (small friend - Z3) making the route much less bold. The El Cap Finish over the top roof is worth doing. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: There is good gear on the right side of the slab before you make any hard moves (small friend - Z3) making the route much less bold. The El Cap Finish over the top roof is worth doing. |
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| JMarkW | 19 Feb, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: The poor runners in the thin crack are fairly useless. The wire below the ledge is a long way below when you are on the upper slab. Bold. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The poor runners in the thin crack are fairly useless. The wire below the ledge is a long way below when you are on the upper slab. Bold. |
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| Robo | 13 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easy sloper pulling for the bold. Terrifying for the limestone climber, I'd imagine. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Easy sloper pulling for the bold. Terrifying for the limestone climber, I'd imagine. |
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| gav p | 14 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Definitely easier gaining the ledge on the left. A decent looking small wire can be fiddled in below foot level on the right side of the ledge. This, combined with a bomber cam lower on the route, should prevent a deck from the steep slab. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Definitely easier gaining the ledge on the left. A decent looking small wire can be fiddled in below foot level on the right side of the ledge. This, combined with a bomber cam lower on the route, should prevent a deck from the steep slab. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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M1
Grade: E2 5b ***
(High Tor)