Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
The protectable and pleasant right-hand crack finishing up the short and easy chockstoned chimney above. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Townsend 1949.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/5/ Always a Little Steeper , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , George is a real VS climber , All the greens - Peak District , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stanley 18 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Tougher than expected, got a bit pumped placing the gear, but overall very good.
Show beta
βeta: Tougher than expected, got a bit pumped placing the gear, but overall very good.
Kryank 30 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, finger jams and small nuts! A delicate little route compared to the usual thuggish cracks and chimneys. Everything is there when you need it,
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route, finger jams and small nuts! A delicate little route compared to the usual thuggish cracks and chimneys. Everything is there when you need it,
CurlyStevo 17 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Felt spot on the money for vs 4c to me. Unusual for grit at the grade in that it's climbing on mainly positive holds, and your not using the crack much.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Felt spot on the money for vs 4c to me. Unusual for grit at the grade in that it's climbing on mainly positive holds, and your not using the crack much.
Paul Tomo 6 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice route, you are straight into the problem from the start, 4c about right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very nice route, you are straight into the problem from the start, 4c about right.
Tom M Williams 24 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: V.Nice little route. Found 4c about right, Would be nice if it were 5m or so longer tho
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: V.Nice little route. Found 4c about right, Would be nice if it were 5m or so longer tho
MNA123 4 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route, hard 4c though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route, hard 4c though.
John Sergeant 24 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: lovely climb at the grade recommend it to all!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: lovely climb at the grade recommend it to all!!

Logged Ascents

4863 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 225 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 358
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 343
Votes cast 330
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Moneylender's Crack

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)

Loading Notifications...