Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The blunt arete has a bit of a bold start. Slippery moves gain the arete, then a detached block. Another tricky move gains the upper section which soon eases. © Rockfax
FA. Lewis Coxon 1922.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Stanage , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage , Stanage 1956
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C Witter | 25 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: Very pleasant and worthwhile. Can be started slightly to the left, to gain the obvious foothold, rather than having to leap onto that foot with poor hands. Protection is good if you have a good range of cams. VS 4c and worth every cent of its 2 stars. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Very pleasant and worthwhile. Can be started slightly to the left, to gain the obvious foothold, rather than having to leap onto that foot with poor hands. Protection is good if you have a good range of cams. VS 4c and worth every cent of its 2 stars. |
||||
| deepsoup | 18 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: I did this route today (very nice) - and if the block wasn't moving before it is now. (Only very slightly though, under the extreme provocation of my enormous bodyweight.) I resisted the temptation to put gear behind it on the grounds that I'd rather deck than deck and then be squashed by a falling boulder! Once you've got hold of the block its dead easy to mantle up onto it, and theres a good bit of gear not far above it. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I did this route today (very nice) - and if the block wasn't moving before it is now. (Only very slightly though, under the extreme provocation of my enormous bodyweight.) I resisted the temptation to put gear behind it on the grounds that I'd rather deck than deck and then be squashed by a falling boulder! Once you've got hold of the block its dead easy to mantle up onto it, and theres a good bit of gear not far above it. |
||||
| Byronius Maximus | 17 Feb, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Is the block actually detached? Surely it would have come off if anyone's ever fallen on to gear placed behind it (which is likely since the crux is just above from memory). Anyway, great route, didn't really notice any polish at the bottom. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Is the block actually detached? Surely it would have come off if anyone's ever fallen on to gear placed behind it (which is likely since the crux is just above from memory). Anyway, great route, didn't really notice any polish at the bottom. |
||||
| Si dH | 11 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: HVS 5a in the Stanage guide. I certainly dont think its 5a, did anyone else find the lower section wit hall its polish harder tha nthe supposed crux off the block? I did find it very bold though, I wasnt keen on the cams in the slot below the block and so felt like I didnt really have anything until I got tot he block (7-8m?). Dont see a problem in whacking a big nut behind the block as I did, it aint moving. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: HVS 5a in the Stanage guide. I certainly dont think its 5a, did anyone else find the lower section wit hall its polish harder tha nthe supposed crux off the block? I did find it very bold though, I wasnt keen on the cams in the slot below the block and so felt like I didnt really have anything until I got tot he block (7-8m?). Dont see a problem in whacking a big nut behind the block as I did, it aint moving. |
||||
| Jon Greengrass | 20 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Is putting gear behind the detached block a good idea? actually most of the placements sounded a bit hollow. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Is putting gear behind the detached block a good idea? actually most of the placements sounded a bit hollow. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Gargoyle Flake
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Bamford Edge)