Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
A narrow wall split vertically in its upper part by a thin crack. Pull over a bulge to gain the crack and follow it to a stinker of a move where it disappears. © Rockfax

FA. Don Morrison et al early 1960s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage

Feedback

User Date Notes
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely moves up the finger flake
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely moves up the finger flake
pipcollier 13 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Really enjoyed this route. Grade good and protection is very easy. Stay off the left hand side and this is a good challenge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really enjoyed this route. Grade good and protection is very easy. Stay off the left hand side and this is a good challenge.
Skyfall 2 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Quite a hard mantleshelf to get established on the central wall. A bit eliminate but v nice moves and well protected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite a hard mantleshelf to get established on the central wall. A bit eliminate but v nice moves and well protected.
Rampikino 20 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agree that it is tricky to avoid other routes either side, but some nice stuff and much cleaner than Beggar's Crack.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree that it is tricky to avoid other routes either side, but some nice stuff and much cleaner than Beggar's Crack.
smithaldo 11 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I thought it was cracking, really nice moves if you just use the flake and not just a one move wonder at the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought it was cracking, really nice moves if you just use the flake and not just a one move wonder at the grade.
Jon Greengrass 8 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: tricky moves where it dissapears? bloody desperate move more like! thank god the gears good.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: tricky moves where it dissapears? bloody desperate move more like! thank god the gears good.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 109
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 105
Votes cast 102
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hell Crack

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage Popular)

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