Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
An all-time classic. Climb the arete, past a tricky overlap, to the big roof. Traverse left then grope up for good jams. Swiftly get established on the final wall then finish easily. © Rockfax
FA. Barry Webb 1964.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Stanage: My Favourite Five , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , World Graded List , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Stanage Wishlist , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Extreme 2018 , Stanage Popular , On Peak Rock , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Big Boy Pants , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , 1964 Stanage Guide Extremes , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Eastern Grit E1s , The Eal List , Original and best stanage extremes , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , Stanage 3 star E1s , E1's , Grit season 23/24
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kiddie68 | 23 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: The 'better than expected' jams at the end of the traverse are ABOVE the lip, in balance and there's good cams there too. Don't hang about below the lip, expecting the crux to be getting over it! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The 'better than expected' jams at the end of the traverse are ABOVE the lip, in balance and there's good cams there too. Don't hang about below the lip, expecting the crux to be getting over it! |
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| Ariegeois | 22 Nov, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Seeing Barry Webb solo this most Saturday nights after a skinful in the Scotsman's Pack was one of the highlights of my gritstone youth! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Seeing Barry Webb solo this most Saturday nights after a skinful in the Scotsman's Pack was one of the highlights of my gritstone youth! |
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| Ben Rowland | 28 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: My Beta: do traverse quickly, both hands on poor break, high right foot, right hand into full crimp side pull, move left hand right, go for top of crack with right hand. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: My Beta: do traverse quickly, both hands on poor break, high right foot, right hand into full crimp side pull, move left hand right, go for top of crack with right hand. |
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| Jus | 13 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: A friend in the lower wall, a nut before you traverse left and a medium cam in the roof below the rockover. Sorted. Best E1 I've done. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: A friend in the lower wall, a nut before you traverse left and a medium cam in the roof below the rockover. Sorted. Best E1 I've done. |
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| MeMeMe | 15 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The gear on the traverse didn't look all that good to me, I tried to fiddle in a small cam but gave up. I guess you might be able to get one in the best hold on the traverse, but I wanted to use that for my hand! Bomber gear for the crux (small cam in crack and a bigger one in the break above), and fantastic move up from the jams. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The gear on the traverse didn't look all that good to me, I tried to fiddle in a small cam but gave up. I guess you might be able to get one in the best hold on the traverse, but I wanted to use that for my hand! Bomber gear for the crux (small cam in crack and a bigger one in the break above), and fantastic move up from the jams. |
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| cem | 16 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Is the cam protection that good? I've witnessed someone fall off at the end of the traverse, rip out several cams & do a massive pendulum. His feet were almost scraping the ground! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Is the cam protection that good? I've witnessed someone fall off at the end of the traverse, rip out several cams & do a massive pendulum. His feet were almost scraping the ground! |
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| Garan | 10 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Did it last night (09/06/04). No thread. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Did it last night (09/06/04). No thread. |
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| stow | 22 Apr, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: WARNING - GEAR BETA FOLLOWS: Unsolicited gear beta is bad, but since the last guy broke his ankle... I was able to protect the traverse with an ok small cam in one of the handholds on the traverse (green alien?) and if there is no thread a yellow alien in the crack splitting the roof is bomber, as is a no. 2 red camalot in the big break above the roof. Nice route. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: WARNING - GEAR BETA FOLLOWS: Unsolicited gear beta is bad, but since the last guy broke his ankle... I was able to protect the traverse with an ok small cam in one of the handholds on the traverse (green alien?) and if there is no thread a yellow alien in the crack splitting the roof is bomber, as is a no. 2 red camalot in the big break above the roof. Nice route. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Guidebook Correction
Eastern Grit (2015)The route numbers of these two routes are switched. Descriptions are fine but Tippler is route 5 line and Paranoid breaks right along the lip as indicated by the route 6 line.
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Intestate Direct Start
Grade: E1 6a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)