Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Reach the hanging flake from the chimney by a hard traverse (footholds scoured by nailed boots aeons ago), then layback to easy ground. A short wall concludes things. © Rockfax
FA. Frank Elliott 1930.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , 14 In A Day , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage , Stanage 1956
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| MeMeMe | 15 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: A good VD climb spoiled by a technically hard and polished traverse start. The traverse at the start is pretty horrible and probably not what people will be expecting on a VS. Although it's only 4 feet up it's strenuous to place gear (making it hard to place well). I think in retrospect I'd of enjoyed it more by putting a mat down and bouldering the start then soloing the top bit. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A good VD climb spoiled by a technically hard and polished traverse start. The traverse at the start is pretty horrible and probably not what people will be expecting on a VS. Although it's only 4 feet up it's strenuous to place gear (making it hard to place well). I think in retrospect I'd of enjoyed it more by putting a mat down and bouldering the start then soloing the top bit. |
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| Si dH | 24 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this today, although I stand by what I sid about needing the protecion at the start, it is good and I felt soft 5a - noway 5b - and the rest of the route is severe or even vdiff once youre on the flake. Soft VS. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Climbed this today, although I stand by what I sid about needing the protecion at the start, it is good and I felt soft 5a - noway 5b - and the rest of the route is severe or even vdiff once youre on the flake. Soft VS. |
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| shaun walby | 24 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nothing too unexpected from this one as all its difficulties are clearly on show 2m above the belayer. I got two bits of gear in (traverse)the second bit i might have been better keeping moving to the flake...too much faff on tired arms. Hard start for VS,worthy 5a. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Nothing too unexpected from this one as all its difficulties are clearly on show 2m above the belayer. I got two bits of gear in (traverse)the second bit i might have been better keeping moving to the flake...too much faff on tired arms. Hard start for VS,worthy 5a. |
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| sandy | 19 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Did this on a misty damp day. The horizontal break for the traverse was full of slime...no footholds and slime for your hands hmmm seemed hard for 5a... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Did this on a misty damp day. The horizontal break for the traverse was full of slime...no footholds and slime for your hands hmmm seemed hard for 5a... |
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| Si dH | 29 Jan, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ive not done it but without the gear in the break its a nasty tumble. I was belaying it when my partner fell off (trying to reverse the traverse), the cam in the break popped and he buggered his ankle on the rocks below. Didnt climb again for 4 months or so. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Ive not done it but without the gear in the break its a nasty tumble. I was belaying it when my partner fell off (trying to reverse the traverse), the cam in the break popped and he buggered his ankle on the rocks below. Didnt climb again for 4 months or so. |
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| dycotiles | 25 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: I don't think this route is 5a. Although the initial traverse is short, is very technical, with very polished foot holds, and when you get to the flake where you are supposed to pull up onto easier ground, you are already pumped out. I fell three times on it (on a technical n1 friend, no problem), and nearly broke an ankle against the chimney. Not what you would expect from a VS, definetedly, HVS, 5b. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I don't think this route is 5a. Although the initial traverse is short, is very technical, with very polished foot holds, and when you get to the flake where you are supposed to pull up onto easier ground, you are already pumped out. I fell three times on it (on a technical n1 friend, no problem), and nearly broke an ankle against the chimney. Not what you would expect from a VS, definetedly, HVS, 5b. |
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| CragHead | 17 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The start of the route is seriously hard as there is no foothold (the orginal one is now really polished!) The horizon crack at the start - don't put techinal friends, use forged friends with quickdraw to extend it (trust me) Good 5a route to start with but get easier on the top. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The start of the route is seriously hard as there is no foothold (the orginal one is now really polished!) The horizon crack at the start - don't put techinal friends, use forged friends with quickdraw to extend it (trust me) Good 5a route to start with but get easier on the top. |
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Logged Ascents
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Sand Buttress
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Black Rocks)