Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

20m.

Rockfax Description
Follow either of the Robin Hood's Staircase starts until just below the cliff top then jam left along the horizontal break to a tricky finish up the left-hand arete. Slightly aimless but it gives easy climbing across an impressive wall. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1972.

Ticklists

14 In A Day , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Stanage , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage , Peak Traverses

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 15 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great once you get to the traverse. Didn't enjoy the unprotected start that was unexpectedly hard. Fun last moves I think deserve 4c. Pumpy route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great once you get to the traverse. Didn't enjoy the unprotected start that was unexpectedly hard. Fun last moves I think deserve 4c. Pumpy route!
JoKby 27 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I did this ticking off some routes I’ve never done, it was really enjoyable, great traverse (protected with friends) and edgy finish, worth doing :)
Show beta
βeta: I did this ticking off some routes I’ve never done, it was really enjoyable, great traverse (protected with friends) and edgy finish, worth doing :)
nate 17 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great solo! fun and exposed. would not want to have sorted ropes for it..
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great solo! fun and exposed. would not want to have sorted ropes for it..

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 73
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 69
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flash Wall

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)

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