There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The crack gives good finger-jamming and all the difficulties are well protected. A good first VS, solid but safe and full of interest. © Rockfax
FA. Rodney Wilson late 1950s.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , 14 In A Day , Eastern Grit Jamming , 100 Stanage stars , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet
User | Date | Notes | ||
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milanboez | 22 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: How is this the same grade as Ellis's Eliminate hahahaha. Fun quick route though, but due to the difficulties being short-lived and excellent gear HS is more realistic and consistent with Stanage grading having done most the starred VSs. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: How is this the same grade as Ellis's Eliminate hahahaha. Fun quick route though, but due to the difficulties being short-lived and excellent gear HS is more realistic and consistent with Stanage grading having done most the starred VSs. |
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chriszxr | 19 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: this was the first lead i ever did got stuck half way up then got my head together and did it dident even get told the grade till after but nice climb eny way | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: this was the first lead i ever did got stuck half way up then got my head together and did it dident even get told the grade till after but nice climb eny way |
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Hodge | 26 May, 2006 |
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βeta: This was my first VS lead. I would agree with others' comments, it's a good choice - solid gear throughout and enjoyable moves. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This was my first VS lead. I would agree with others' comments, it's a good choice - solid gear throughout and enjoyable moves. |
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Monk | 7 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Strangely, i have always thought this was quite hard for VS but the first time I tried it i failed (when i was starting out climbing) and the 2nd time I did it in the near dark without a head torch | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Strangely, i have always thought this was quite hard for VS but the first time I tried it i failed (when i was starting out climbing) and the 2nd time I did it in the near dark without a head torch |
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Simon Caldwell | 7 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very nice. A good first VS as the gear is so good. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very nice. A good first VS as the gear is so good. |
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Grade: VS 5a ***
(Stanage Plantation)