Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Start up a jutting rib on the right side of the bay, then stretch out left to ledges. Climb to a broken flake under the roof and make a long reach to the ledge above. Swing right to easy ground. © Rockfax
FA. Alan Clarke 1965.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage *** HVS's , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 3 Star Stanage , Stanage Wishlist , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , EUMC - Must do climbs , Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars! , Severe Stanage , 2020/21 Trips , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Peaky , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone , The Eal List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Stuck to a Rock | 7 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Confirmed do-able by the short | βeta? | |
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βeta: Confirmed do-able by the short |
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| Tysoe82 | 1 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: The reachy bit is challenging for vertically challenged peeps like me. Good fun route though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The reachy bit is challenging for vertically challenged peeps like me. Good fun route though. |
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| Paul Tomo | 10 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: Excellent route from start to finish, the wire placements are a little worn but with a 2.5 cam in the top right hand pocket who needs wires. | ||
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βeta: Excellent route from start to finish, the wire placements are a little worn but with a 2.5 cam in the top right hand pocket who needs wires. |
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| Duz Walker | 16 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Superb. Lower crux goes ok when you summon the gumption to release from the sinker with your right hand. Top crux was not as reachy as I was anticipating. Felt well protected to me. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Superb. Lower crux goes ok when you summon the gumption to release from the sinker with your right hand. Top crux was not as reachy as I was anticipating. Felt well protected to me. |
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| sheffieldchris | 30 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: found the traverse move the first time no problem, the longest reach is standing on the middle ledge and getting gear into the horizontal crack above you before you move right to the good hold under the mantleshelf, which i had a epic on and ended getting through it in no style but lots of thuggery. Did anyone else find the next move off the ledge tricky | ||
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Show beta
βeta: found the traverse move the first time no problem, the longest reach is standing on the middle ledge and getting gear into the horizontal crack above you before you move right to the good hold under the mantleshelf, which i had a epic on and ended getting through it in no style but lots of thuggery. Did anyone else find the next move off the ledge tricky |
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| Munir Hassan | 30 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The first time I did this I didn't hang around on the scary crux - which made the move feel more like E1 since I was protected by poor wires below and left. The second time around I took it slower and had a better look around, and found some excellent medium friend placements below the long reach up - so for the level-headed its a solid HVS. And three-stars-worth of anyone's money. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The first time I did this I didn't hang around on the scary crux - which made the move feel more like E1 since I was protected by poor wires below and left. The second time around I took it slower and had a better look around, and found some excellent medium friend placements below the long reach up - so for the level-headed its a solid HVS. And three-stars-worth of anyone's money. |
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| MeMeMe | 15 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Great route! I agree that the top reach isn't the crux because the layaway hold you use to make the reach is much better than expected and so you can get your feet nice and high. Nice technical route with just enough gear. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Great route! I agree that the top reach isn't the crux because the layaway hold you use to make the reach is much better than expected and so you can get your feet nice and high. Nice technical route with just enough gear. |
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| Si dH | 4 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Awesome. Theres a good number 2 nut at the bottom if you take the time to fiddle it in, but still the crux IMO. Top reach is easy for 5a off a good layaway hold, although the mantle is pretty hard - I was expecting it to be over after Id made the reach to the ledge and got a shock! Those top moves to the ledge look very intimidating from below. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Awesome. Theres a good number 2 nut at the bottom if you take the time to fiddle it in, but still the crux IMO. Top reach is easy for 5a off a good layaway hold, although the mantle is pretty hard - I was expecting it to be over after Id made the reach to the ledge and got a shock! Those top moves to the ledge look very intimidating from below. |
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| Albie | 20 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: A climb that is worthy of the tag 'A Classic'. It's all there in 16m of gritstone - the easy start to build your confidence, the delicate technical section, followed in short order by thuggy over-hang. Finally you are rewarded by an easy finnish, giving you time to savour the struggle. AND I managed to do it cleanly - though it was my second attempt. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A climb that is worthy of the tag 'A Classic'. It's all there in 16m of gritstone - the easy start to build your confidence, the delicate technical section, followed in short order by thuggy over-hang. Finally you are rewarded by an easy finnish, giving you time to savour the struggle. AND I managed to do it cleanly - though it was my second attempt. |
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| leon | 15 May, 2004 |
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βeta: the bottom section is definately the crux though the top section looks like it is before you start making the moves. | βeta? | |
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βeta: the bottom section is definately the crux though the top section looks like it is before you start making the moves. |
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| Tyler | 22 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: I must have been doing something wrong becuase no one else has voted for E1. The wire placements seem very worn and most of mine fell out, the bottom crux is precarious and you'd be lucky if the wire held. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I must have been doing something wrong becuase no one else has voted for E1. The wire placements seem very worn and most of mine fell out, the bottom crux is precarious and you'd be lucky if the wire held. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 20 Apr, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: The large unattached block that used to sit on the mantelshelf ledge near the top is now lying in bits at the bottom of the climb. Apparently this makes the mantel move "a bit scarier", although still a 5a move. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The large unattached block that used to sit on the mantelshelf ledge near the top is now lying in bits at the bottom of the climb. Apparently this makes the mantel move "a bit scarier", although still a 5a move. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Neb Buttress
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Bamford Edge)