Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
The straightforward crack and the bulges above. Strenuous. © Rockfax

FA. Clive Jones 1978.

Ticklists

'Soft' Peak HVSs.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Charles Reade-Jahn 28 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with GrahamD: The Definitive Stanage guide sends you up the smooth wall just to the left of Route 2.. This is a good reachy 5a move. I then stepped back left (above the crack in the Rockfax description) and went straight up the bulges above. It felt a nice route with both technical and butch moves..
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with GrahamD: The Definitive Stanage guide sends you up the smooth wall just to the left of Route 2.. This is a good reachy 5a move. I then stepped back left (above the crack in the Rockfax description) and went straight up the bulges above. It felt a nice route with both technical and butch moves..
GrahamD 26 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax gives a different description to the one in the definitive guide; there it goes directly up the wall between the two cracks. That way definately is 5a (and probably harder for the short). The top section over the bulges is great fun on surprisingly juggy holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax gives a different description to the one in the definitive guide; there it goes directly up the wall between the two cracks. That way definately is 5a (and probably harder for the short). The top section over the bulges is great fun on surprisingly juggy holds.
leon 6 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i found this one really disapointing because the bottom is so easy (s 4a?). then it's a couple of moves on really positive holds (5a but well protected). wish i hadn't wasted my time.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i found this one really disapointing because the bottom is so easy (s 4a?). then it's a couple of moves on really positive holds (5a but well protected). wish i hadn't wasted my time.
mat_galvin 17 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Found this one right 'out there' (on the second!). Super commit to the top moves or problems will ensue!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found this one right 'out there' (on the second!). Super commit to the top moves or problems will ensue!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 41
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kilkenny Rib

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Kinder Downfall)

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