Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Enter the chimney by a steep blocky crack. Above this the main fissure is followed more easily. A decent beginners' climb. © Rockfax
FA. J.W. Puttrell late 1890s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , Puttrell's Progress , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Rock/1/ The 1st Peak District Tigers. , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Starred VDiffs , Stanage Chimney Tour , Stanage Popular Greens , Stanage 'Difficults' , Peak diff and vdiff starred routes and top 50 , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Pottering with Puttrell at Stanage , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Pre-WW1 Stanage , The Golden Age of Stanage Chimney’s
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jon Greengrass | 5 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: very polished, remember to squeak your boots clean | βeta? | |
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βeta: very polished, remember to squeak your boots clean |
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| AsleepOnBelay | 4 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: I really enjoyed this as a warm up lead, it's not just a dirty thrutch like most other chimneys. Has a wild feel to it, probably because the wind is chasing you up there. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I really enjoyed this as a warm up lead, it's not just a dirty thrutch like most other chimneys. Has a wild feel to it, probably because the wind is chasing you up there. |
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| Si dH | 22 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Theres a big loose block at half height which might scare a beginner (I carefully avoided it soloing), but otherwise agreed. One of the guys I was with did it as his first lead and enjoyed it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Theres a big loose block at half height which might scare a beginner (I carefully avoided it soloing), but otherwise agreed. One of the guys I was with did it as his first lead and enjoyed it. |
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| Crammy | 3 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: Good for low exposure but how does it deserve 2 stars? Most of it is a dirty scramble. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good for low exposure but how does it deserve 2 stars? Most of it is a dirty scramble. |
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| Duz Walker | 2 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Yup, the hard part is all over by the time your feet are on the first ledge, after that steep stairs and no exposure. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Yup, the hard part is all over by the time your feet are on the first ledge, after that steep stairs and no exposure. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Heaven Crack
Grade: VD ***
(Stanage Popular)