There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The bulging jamming crack is taken direct and is superb. The initial overhang is the crux and, although well protected, it will seek out any weakness in your jamming technique. © Rockfax
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LD's next grit trip(s) , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Stanage , Tom's crack funtimes , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , Peak grit , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage , Stanage 1956
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Ben12345 | 4 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Really good route very protectable and safe, I found it harder than a few other HVS climbs I’ve done but the jamming is really sercure and confidence inspiring when you get it. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Really good route very protectable and safe, I found it harder than a few other HVS climbs I’ve done but the jamming is really sercure and confidence inspiring when you get it. |
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Absendit | 28 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Get the start over and done with quickly. Good gear for the crux. Weaknesses in jamming were discovered ???? Note to self, don't do 10 other VS routes before getting on this one. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Get the start over and done with quickly. Good gear for the crux. Weaknesses in jamming were discovered ???? Note to self, don't do 10 other VS routes before getting on this one. |
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Matt Barker | 10 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Proper grim, well protected throughout but found crux proper desperate, felt way harder than 5b moves I've done recently... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Proper grim, well protected throughout but found crux proper desperate, felt way harder than 5b moves I've done recently... |
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Mutl3y | 24 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Brutal! Very rough rock. I'm glad I don't have to do it again... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Brutal! Very rough rock. I'm glad I don't have to do it again... |
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Si dH | 22 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought this pretty middling at VS 4c, I dont knwo where the 4b comes from, its not, and if it was that bit easier at the crux the route wouldnt warrant VS. One hardish move then easier, and all well protected. You need to know how to jam though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I thought this pretty middling at VS 4c, I dont knwo where the 4b comes from, its not, and if it was that bit easier at the crux the route wouldnt warrant VS. One hardish move then easier, and all well protected. You need to know how to jam though. |
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Big Steve | 10 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I found getting bomber gear in to protect the crux easy. Pulling over the roof was tricky, came of several times | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I found getting bomber gear in to protect the crux easy. Pulling over the roof was tricky, came of several times |
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shaun walby | 10 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Firstly....The man has a point, i very much hope that anyone who votes/comments on this facility has led the route there talking about(nuff said). The route... Well protected hard work initally,enjoyable climbing above.I was more laybacking than jamming on the crux. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Firstly....The man has a point, i very much hope that anyone who votes/comments on this facility has led the route there talking about(nuff said). The route... Well protected hard work initally,enjoyable climbing above.I was more laybacking than jamming on the crux. |
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Simon Caldwell | 27 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Woker, Please read my comment again, concentrate hard on the word 'seen'. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Woker, Please read my comment again, concentrate hard on the word 'seen'. |
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Simon Caldwell | 24 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Approach from the right? I've never seen it done any way other than straight up. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Approach from the right? I've never seen it done any way other than straight up. |
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The old James turnbull | 25 Mar, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: climbed alot harder grades but still found this hard work. great gear but get it in quick and get over the start. i got too pumped and so made the easy moves above hard work. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: climbed alot harder grades but still found this hard work. great gear but get it in quick and get over the start. i got too pumped and so made the easy moves above hard work. |
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Grade: VS 5a ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)