There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
From the balcony, step left and make a long reach round the roof from undercuts to jugs, then sprint up the exposed final wall. © Rockfax
FA. Peter Harding 1946.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/5/ Always a Little Steeper , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The V.S.+ Ticklist , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage 1956
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Ghost | 29 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Much easier than it looks! Bang some gear in the crack in the roof and just go for it, you won't regret it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Much easier than it looks! Bang some gear in the crack in the roof and just go for it, you won't regret it! |
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slacky | 21 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Logical finish to RHCI. Made all the more fun by the 40mph gusts of wind :-) | ||
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βeta: Logical finish to RHCI. Made all the more fun by the 40mph gusts of wind :-) |
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Sam Doyle | 16 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: An excellent route, well-protected and bold. Direct all the way from RHCI is the awesome. | βeta? | |
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βeta: An excellent route, well-protected and bold. Direct all the way from RHCI is the awesome. |
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Gripped | 3 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: With RHCI, direct all the way, brilliant fun. | βeta? | |
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βeta: With RHCI, direct all the way, brilliant fun. |
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Monk | 26 May, 2004 |
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βeta: More intimidating than difficult. Absolutely brilliant route! | βeta? | |
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βeta: More intimidating than difficult. Absolutely brilliant route! |
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Duncan I | 17 May, 2004 |
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βeta: All you need is one nut on the nose! Stunning move, much easier than it looks as though it should. | βeta? | |
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βeta: All you need is one nut on the nose! Stunning move, much easier than it looks as though it should. |
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Neil Morbey | 18 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: A fantastic, well protected gem! All you need is a set of nuts! Great start- (hvs?) awsome finish! | βeta? | |
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βeta: A fantastic, well protected gem! All you need is a set of nuts! Great start- (hvs?) awsome finish! |
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bone | 14 Sep, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: threading a sling before setting out for the juggy finish made it feel safer and probly all the more enjoyable. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: threading a sling before setting out for the juggy finish made it feel safer and probly all the more enjoyable. |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Gardom's Edge)