Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

6m.

Rockfax Description
From the balcony, step left and make a long reach round the roof from undercuts to jugs, then sprint up the exposed final wall. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Harding 1946.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/5/ Always a Little Steeper , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The V.S.+ Ticklist , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ghost 29 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Much easier than it looks! Bang some gear in the crack in the roof and just go for it, you won't regret it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Much easier than it looks! Bang some gear in the crack in the roof and just go for it, you won't regret it!
slacky 21 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Logical finish to RHCI. Made all the more fun by the 40mph gusts of wind :-)
Show beta
βeta: Logical finish to RHCI. Made all the more fun by the 40mph gusts of wind :-)
Sam Doyle 16 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: An excellent route, well-protected and bold. Direct all the way from RHCI is the awesome.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An excellent route, well-protected and bold. Direct all the way from RHCI is the awesome.
Gripped 3 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: With RHCI, direct all the way, brilliant fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: With RHCI, direct all the way, brilliant fun.
Monk 26 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: More intimidating than difficult. Absolutely brilliant route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: More intimidating than difficult. Absolutely brilliant route!
Duncan I 17 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: All you need is one nut on the nose! Stunning move, much easier than it looks as though it should.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: All you need is one nut on the nose! Stunning move, much easier than it looks as though it should.
Neil Morbey 18 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A fantastic, well protected gem! All you need is a set of nuts! Great start- (hvs?) awsome finish!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fantastic, well protected gem! All you need is a set of nuts! Great start- (hvs?) awsome finish!
bone 14 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: threading a sling before setting out for the juggy finish made it feel safer and probly all the more enjoyable.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: threading a sling before setting out for the juggy finish made it feel safer and probly all the more enjoyable.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 101
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 96
Votes cast 98
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Eye of faith (left hand start)

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Gardom's Edge)

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