Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax Description
Climb the awkward corner to a ledge thenmove right to below the chimney. Climb up then step left and finish up the crack left again. Avoiding the loop is a bit harder - Garden Fence, HS 4b. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Popular Greens , Stanage Severes (UKC) , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Corrie93 4 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The moves left felt quite tenuous for the short- if the ledge is out of reach it's a delicate traverse with very poor hand options!
Show beta
βeta: The moves left felt quite tenuous for the short- if the ledge is out of reach it's a delicate traverse with very poor hand options!
curly8 7 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A good little route, but easy for a Severe, especially if the left-hand start is taken - in the old days it was graded VDiff 3b...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good little route, but easy for a Severe, especially if the left-hand start is taken - in the old days it was graded VDiff 3b...

Logged Ascents

1378 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 76 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 97
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 84
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bishop's Route

Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)

Loading Notifications...