Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A fair test of how the jamming is coming on! Traverse the horizontal break on solid lockers (or by a gripping dangle) out to the nose. Finish up the exposed juggy arete. © Rockfax

FA. Gilbert Ellis 1950.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , 14 In A Day , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Get out on Rock , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Tom's crack funtimes , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , George is a real VS climber , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 21 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Most desperate traverse for all the VSs. I thought Curving Crack at Bamford was nails. Well this was worse!
βeta?
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βeta: Most desperate traverse for all the VSs. I thought Curving Crack at Bamford was nails. Well this was worse!
Stanley 18 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant.
βeta?
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βeta: Brilliant.
Pascalo 5 Mar, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Saving big gear for the (easy) second half can be found to be wise.
βeta?
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βeta: Saving big gear for the (easy) second half can be found to be wise.
Gentile01 11 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: excellent fun had to get eren to get me a gold cam!
βeta?
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βeta: excellent fun had to get eren to get me a gold cam!
Al Evans 30 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Think about your second, only use one rope for runners on the traverse, This was my first VS, (about 45 years ago) as a second and we only had one rope, but it was ok because we didnt have cams so runners were not a problem. Good lead by my mate, his first VS lead, mine was IV, the route next door straight after :-)
βeta?
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βeta: Think about your second, only use one rope for runners on the traverse, This was my first VS, (about 45 years ago) as a second and we only had one rope, but it was ok because we didnt have cams so runners were not a problem. Good lead by my mate, his first VS lead, mine was IV, the route next door straight after :-)
sheffieldchris 29 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: too right ment right
βeta?
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βeta: too right ment right
Chris Craggs 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Better off putting the gear to the RIGHT - less likely to hit the ground that way! CC
βeta?
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βeta: Better off putting the gear to the RIGHT - less likely to hit the ground that way! CC
sheffieldchris 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: top tip on this route get to the start of the travers put some gear in, take the rest, move left put some gear in as far away as you can, come back and have another rest then go for it but do not get the end move wrong have seen a fair few people deck on this route
βeta?
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βeta: top tip on this route get to the start of the travers put some gear in, take the rest, move left put some gear in as far away as you can, come back and have another rest then go for it but do not get the end move wrong have seen a fair few people deck on this route
Si dH 17 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty soft IMO, you dont even need to jam it if you dont want to. If you sort your feet out youre never footless either (can stretch from slopers on left to slopers on right with a wide stance) and the break not only has good jams but positive holds to boot. Enough gera can be placed before committing to make it safe.
βeta?
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βeta: Pretty soft IMO, you dont even need to jam it if you dont want to. If you sort your feet out youre never footless either (can stretch from slopers on left to slopers on right with a wide stance) and the break not only has good jams but positive holds to boot. Enough gera can be placed before committing to make it safe.
MeMeMe 2 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The traverse has poor footholds at the start (little pebbles), but good jams, as it continues the footholds get better and the jams get worse (they got too wide for me). Gear is great at long as you have the strength to stop and place it. The arete is very pleasant too (and very easy).
βeta?
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βeta: The traverse has poor footholds at the start (little pebbles), but good jams, as it continues the footholds get better and the jams get worse (they got too wide for me). Gear is great at long as you have the strength to stop and place it. The arete is very pleasant too (and very easy).
nick w 27 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: great route ,but came off after "going 4 it"and split my head open on the boulders below!be warned, put some gear in.
βeta?
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βeta: great route ,but came off after "going 4 it"and split my head open on the boulders below!be warned, put some gear in.
Sam and will 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: a brilliant route, great test for VS hand jamming
βeta?
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βeta: a brilliant route, great test for VS hand jamming
Jon Stewart 8 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: no need to jam? maybe not, but it makes it a thousand times easier (unless you enjoy dangling off slopers)
βeta?
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βeta: no need to jam? maybe not, but it makes it a thousand times easier (unless you enjoy dangling off slopers)
shaun walby 15 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Was really looking forward to this one but have to say it disappointed, the traverse is the climb and its not as difficult/good as it looks, one bit of gear and keep going.No need to jam.
βeta?
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βeta: Was really looking forward to this one but have to say it disappointed, the traverse is the climb and its not as difficult/good as it looks, one bit of gear and keep going.No need to jam.
Jamie B 5 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The traverse didn't get any easier for me; pumped out and fell off the last move, taking quite a swing. Was solid at VS 4c at the time so believe the route to be HVS 5a but nobody ever agrees with me; the footholds are very poor on the traverse.
βeta?
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βeta: The traverse didn't get any easier for me; pumped out and fell off the last move, taking quite a swing. Was solid at VS 4c at the time so believe the route to be HVS 5a but nobody ever agrees with me; the footholds are very poor on the traverse.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 223
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 209
Votes cast 200
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pothole Wall

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)

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