Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb the flake in the left rib of Straight Crack, step left and climb the fine face direct. Rounded and with less gear than you might like. An alternative to Christmas Crack on 25th December? © Rockfax
FA. John Allen, Christmas Day 1973.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Unappetising Peak , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| neuromancer | 24 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'm not sure what large cams I needed and where they went. You can place one above the crux pull onto the slab, but you're then in no-man's-land (cam's-land?) For the next 6m. E1 if you were short, luckily I wasn't. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I'm not sure what large cams I needed and where they went. You can place one above the crux pull onto the slab, but you're then in no-man's-land (cam's-land?) For the next 6m. E1 if you were short, luckily I wasn't. |
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| Lurkio | 2 May, 2007 |
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βeta: Great route - typical grit slopers. One for a cool head, as the gear is pants between the first moves off the ledge and the next decent break near the top. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great route - typical grit slopers. One for a cool head, as the gear is pants between the first moves off the ledge and the next decent break near the top. |
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| Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH | 26 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Glad to read the other comments about the slopeyness, definitely agree. It was quite a scary solo! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Glad to read the other comments about the slopeyness, definitely agree. It was quite a scary solo! |
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| sheffieldchris | 30 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: cold turkey is such an apt name because after you step up above your 3rd bit of crap gear in the flared breaks on sloping holds thats how you feel. good climb if you are a slab climber with a cool head | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: cold turkey is such an apt name because after you step up above your 3rd bit of crap gear in the flared breaks on sloping holds thats how you feel. good climb if you are a slab climber with a cool head |
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| Neil Adams | 1 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I agree with all the comments about it being scary, slopy and balancy. I hate grit sometimes! I thought it looked ok from the bottom and that I'd be able to get gear into the breaks but no such luck - I ended up with a massive run-out on quite sketchy moves. Definitely felt good to top out alive! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I agree with all the comments about it being scary, slopy and balancy. I hate grit sometimes! I thought it looked ok from the bottom and that I'd be able to get gear into the breaks but no such luck - I ended up with a massive run-out on quite sketchy moves. Definitely felt good to top out alive! |
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| Si dH | 24 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I got good friends 3 and 4 in the first break, without these itd be very bold. The moves up for about 4 metres from there were tough and then the gear arrived as it got easier. 5a about right Id say, probably my first non soft-touch HVS so it feels good :) | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I got good friends 3 and 4 in the first break, without these itd be very bold. The moves up for about 4 metres from there were tough and then the gear arrived as it got easier. 5a about right Id say, probably my first non soft-touch HVS so it feels good :) |
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| Tyler | 18 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'm glad it's not just me then! I agree with the consesus here that it's v. slopey and without a number of large friends it'd be scarey | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I'm glad it's not just me then! I agree with the consesus here that it's v. slopey and without a number of large friends it'd be scarey |
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| shaun walby | 10 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Exciting stuff this one, great opening moves then its slab time. The harder moves nearer the bottom of the slab have pro that wont rip, the moves in the middle which are a tad easier have gear that may well rip (if you slip as the disco leg gets jiggy with it). As a result it felt pretty sustained to me until near the top.Calm head, good feet and as with most slab work bottle needed. Tip...if you go well and feel happy on Hargreaves you should be ok on this accepting its a grade up. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Exciting stuff this one, great opening moves then its slab time. The harder moves nearer the bottom of the slab have pro that wont rip, the moves in the middle which are a tad easier have gear that may well rip (if you slip as the disco leg gets jiggy with it). As a result it felt pretty sustained to me until near the top.Calm head, good feet and as with most slab work bottle needed. Tip...if you go well and feel happy on Hargreaves you should be ok on this accepting its a grade up. |
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| Jon Greengrass | 8 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I got nearly a full set of friends in on this, unfortunatley only the bottom one stayed in, the pscyhological benefit is there as long as you don't look down. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I got nearly a full set of friends in on this, unfortunatley only the bottom one stayed in, the pscyhological benefit is there as long as you don't look down. |
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| Jon Stewart | 29 May, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: If this doesn't deserve reachy and slopey symbols, I'm not sure what does. Great route though, if rather escapable. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If this doesn't deserve reachy and slopey symbols, I'm not sure what does. Great route though, if rather escapable. |
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| Chris the Tall | 15 Aug, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Cracking route - might want to suggest a long reach reach and large friends are useful | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Cracking route - might want to suggest a long reach reach and large friends are useful |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Whillans' Pendulum/Black Magic
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)