Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Nice and steady. Start below the centre of the face, trend left then right through bulges. Stay left of Balcony Buttress's crack then, from the ledge, pull through the centre of the roof to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Chris Craggs 1993.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| milanboez | 21 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent! HVS #5 for me. Exciting end. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent! HVS #5 for me. Exciting end. |
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| stp | 31 Mar, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: I wouldn't call the top 'strenuous' or 'powerful' (Stanage guide). Compared to typical Stanage HVS's which are often pretty thuggish this is not too bad. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I wouldn't call the top 'strenuous' or 'powerful' (Stanage guide). Compared to typical Stanage HVS's which are often pretty thuggish this is not too bad. |
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| Richard 261 | 13 Jun, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Exellent route, Well worth doing. The protection is a bit sparse at the bottom where it's V easy anyway, but superb protection leading up to and at the crux. Nice pull over the roof on good holds. Loved it. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Exellent route, Well worth doing. The protection is a bit sparse at the bottom where it's V easy anyway, but superb protection leading up to and at the crux. Nice pull over the roof on good holds. Loved it. |
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| John Parkin | 11 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Have to admit to resorting to the right knee on the ledge to get established at the start! I agree with high 5a, it feels harder because of the awkward position you're in. Exhilerating finish in the wind, quite committing but the holds are there in the back of the final horizontal break, glad the notch at the top was good!! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Have to admit to resorting to the right knee on the ledge to get established at the start! I agree with high 5a, it feels harder because of the awkward position you're in. Exhilerating finish in the wind, quite committing but the holds are there in the back of the final horizontal break, glad the notch at the top was good!! |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 15 Aug, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: An excellent route, but the line in the guide seems a bit too left at the start. You can start the route under the overhang on the left, but it looks like holds have snapped off and it is more like 5b/c! Start further right at a more reasonable 5a. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: An excellent route, but the line in the guide seems a bit too left at the start. You can start the route under the overhang on the left, but it looks like holds have snapped off and it is more like 5b/c! Start further right at a more reasonable 5a. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Surgeon's Saunter
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage North)