Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
Start as for Verandah Buttress to the shelf then continue direct via a short crack and a final l-o-o-o-o-o-ng stretch. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1954.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Stanage HVS Challenge , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rosie Green 28 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Couldn\'t reach the top from the upside down hand jam, had to let it slip out in a controlled upwards manner to latch the top!
Show beta
βeta: Couldn't reach the top from the upside down hand jam, had to let it slip out in a controlled upwards manner to latch the top!
tomthetraddad 27 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The long move at the end is really nice to a satisfying finish!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The long move at the end is really nice to a satisfying finish!
chris sm 18 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: There is a large pebble in the break which helps the undercut. I found the hardest bit was the start.
Show beta
βeta: There is a large pebble in the break which helps the undercut. I found the hardest bit was the start.
Jon Greengrass 28 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: wrong. the final stretch is not from an upside down jam. it is from an undercut.
Show beta
βeta: wrong. the final stretch is not from an upside down jam. it is from an undercut.
Chris Craggs 17 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Wrong - or just concise?? Chris
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wrong - or just concise?? Chris
Jon Greengrass 17 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The description is wrong, from the ledge a couple of powerful and pumpy moves through steep ground lead to a gently sloping break (keep left) Then jam up the crack finally using an upside down jam to reach the last break, which can be undercut for the even longer reach to an easy topout. good moves after the evil start.
Show beta
βeta: The description is wrong, from the ledge a couple of powerful and pumpy moves through steep ground lead to a gently sloping break (keep left) Then jam up the crack finally using an upside down jam to reach the last break, which can be undercut for the even longer reach to an easy topout. good moves after the evil start.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 70
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 68
Votes cast 66
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sunset Slab

Grade: HVS 4b ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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