There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Start left of the chimney and follow scratched footholds right to a crack and climb this to bulges. Step right and climb the main fissure to the capping overhang and escape out to the left. © Rockfax
FA. Henry Bishop early 1910s. Also known for a time as Blizzard Chimney..
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage; Diffs on the cliffs , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage Starred VDiffs , 50 of the Best , Stanage Popular Greens , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Stanage 'Difficults' , Stanage Solo , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Stanage 1956
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Aither | 31 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Same as below got to the ledge 3/4 of the way up, and couldn't figure it out at all chimney was too small literally not a single foothold no holds within reach and the cams available where not the best had 2 in and didn't love either. Not what you'd want to comit on. Diff all day till then good job if you got further. Bailed out on severe to the left. Partner says he wiggled up the chimney, not for me however. Interesting without the good gear for that move. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Same as below got to the ledge 3/4 of the way up, and couldn't figure it out at all chimney was too small literally not a single foothold no holds within reach and the cams available where not the best had 2 in and didn't love either. Not what you'd want to comit on. Diff all day till then good job if you got further. Bailed out on severe to the left. Partner says he wiggled up the chimney, not for me however. Interesting without the good gear for that move. |
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LauraH | 22 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Couldn't chimney or bridge my way up. Finished up the severe instead! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Couldn't chimney or bridge my way up. Finished up the severe instead! |
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victim of mathematics | 10 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: It's an easy mantleshelf type manouevre. I Soloed this happily a few times when I was only leading VDiff, so it can't be that hard! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It's an easy mantleshelf type manouevre. I Soloed this happily a few times when I was only leading VDiff, so it can't be that hard! |
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LakesWinter | 2 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: There are holds, they're just a bit small and polished. Anyway you can use the big ledge on the right wall to help get round that bit | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: There are holds, they're just a bit small and polished. Anyway you can use the big ledge on the right wall to help get round that bit |
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Jon Greengrass | 1 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Its a chimney its got arse holds :o) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Its a chimney its got arse holds :o) |
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orge | 5 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Would definitely feel a bit run out if you didn't have cams to protect the top corner/crack. It's also a (pleasantly) delicate if you bridge rather than squirming up the crack - can't really complain about that when there was a "traditional" option though :) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Would definitely feel a bit run out if you didn't have cams to protect the top corner/crack. It's also a (pleasantly) delicate if you bridge rather than squirming up the crack - can't really complain about that when there was a "traditional" option though :) |
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Nutkey | 20 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Agree with all the above - my fiancee backed off 2/3 height (first diff, in pouring rain!), and I found the climb, err, interesting. Found the traverse left exposed, and yes, unprotected without cams. VD, at least in the rain! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Agree with all the above - my fiancee backed off 2/3 height (first diff, in pouring rain!), and I found the climb, err, interesting. Found the traverse left exposed, and yes, unprotected without cams. VD, at least in the rain! |
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Grade: D ***
(Black Rocks)