Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Up the polished groove then make the 'Bishop's Stride' around the bulge to the left. The short can go higher - Burgess's Variation, S 4a. Head up and left to the parapet, then choose a finish. © Rockfax
FA. Henry Bishop early 1910s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , Puttrell's Progress , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , King of VDiff , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage Starred VDiffs , Stanage Popular Greens , Stanage 'Difficults' , Peak diff and vdiff starred routes and top 50 , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Stanage Solo , Pottering with Puttrell at Stanage , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Graham Hoey’s Best Peak District Gritstone Routes for Beginners , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Pre-WW1 Stanage , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Ticklist , Stanage Green Spot Challenge
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Climbing1996 | 27 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Keep low on the traverse. Good route but can become scary if you go off route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Keep low on the traverse. Good route but can become scary if you go off route |
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| Andi_FJ | 27 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: my first Grit-Route, fantastic placements, easy but in places exposed, very good top-pro at the liing block. | βeta? | |
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βeta: my first Grit-Route, fantastic placements, easy but in places exposed, very good top-pro at the liing block. |
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| Sazzle | 20 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: Me and my mate did this on saturday, as a 'Peak mixed winter route'! The ledges were covered in snow, which made it all the more exiting. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Me and my mate did this on saturday, as a 'Peak mixed winter route'! The ledges were covered in snow, which made it all the more exiting. |
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| Big Steve | 10 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Long legs certainly help on the traverse. Overall, a superb but busy little route, a lot of fun | βeta? | |
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βeta: Long legs certainly help on the traverse. Overall, a superb but busy little route, a lot of fun |
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| Alan James - Rockfax | 31 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Have to agree with the above comments. Doing the stride and then finishing up the line indicated by Black Hawk on the topo is the best finish and the one most people seem to do. It is also worth noting that my daughter was unable to do the stride move since her legs weren't long enough so she made a little step up and climbed easily over the top of it proclaiming it as a path and much easier than other sections of the route. So much for history! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Have to agree with the above comments. Doing the stride and then finishing up the line indicated by Black Hawk on the topo is the best finish and the one most people seem to do. It is also worth noting that my daughter was unable to do the stride move since her legs weren't long enough so she made a little step up and climbed easily over the top of it proclaiming it as a path and much easier than other sections of the route. So much for history! |
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| Si dH | 22 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: agree wit hall of the above, the bishops stridew move can feel very precarious in the wet since its very polished | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: agree wit hall of the above, the bishops stridew move can feel very precarious in the wet since its very polished |
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| Simon Caldwell | 7 Apr, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The finish shown in the topo is the worst one available. Up the crack taken by the end of Black Hawk is better (and is the line shown in my old Stanage guide). It's also worth mentioning Burgess's Variation (S 4a) which takes the obvious crack up and left (instead of doing the stride) and finishes up the excellent crack to the right. Better than the original IMO. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The finish shown in the topo is the worst one available. Up the crack taken by the end of Black Hawk is better (and is the line shown in my old Stanage guide). It's also worth mentioning Burgess's Variation (S 4a) which takes the obvious crack up and left (instead of doing the stride) and finishes up the excellent crack to the right. Better than the original IMO. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Heaven Crack
Grade: VD ***
(Stanage Popular)