Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
The undercut flaky crack is awkward to access (4b for the short) because of the undercut start. Once reached, the main crack soon eases to a steep but juggy romp. . © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 100 Stanage stars , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Stanage Popular Greens , Beginner Peak Severe , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Stanage Severe Challenge , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , Stanage , Stanage Severes (UKC) , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
C Witter 25 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Severe 4b. That first move is at least 4b and would be 4c if you couldn't step straight back to the ground. Pleasant and obvious line, but quickly over.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Severe 4b. That first move is at least 4b and would be 4c if you couldn't step straight back to the ground. Pleasant and obvious line, but quickly over.
Pat Parsons 15 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: d
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: d
Iker Perez del Palomar 9 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I left a red cam (1 1/3) stuck in the point where the crack divides in two (if I remember properly).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I left a red cam (1 1/3) stuck in the point where the crack divides in two (if I remember properly).
Pythonist 6 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Can't quite see any way around the first few moves in order not to make it 4b+, but after that a great solo warmup for the rest of the area. Severe feels about right in total.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can't quite see any way around the first few moves in order not to make it 4b+, but after that a great solo warmup for the rest of the area. Severe feels about right in total.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 174
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 166
Votes cast 174
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Balcony Buttress

Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)

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