There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
An amazing effort for its day. Climb the lower slab right of centre to a break and runners. Step right and balance up the slab, using an undercut ear to make a tricky mantel/high step well above the gear. Continue to the next break and escape right. © Rockfax
FA. Frank Elliott 1930.
Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Slab , Stanage 1956
User | Date | Notes | ||
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flatdave | 11 May, 2006 |
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βeta: It's not as bold as you think!!! There are good tricams in the pocket on the traverse and the one above to protect the scoop! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It's not as bold as you think!!! There are good tricams in the pocket on the traverse and the one above to protect the scoop! |
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gav p | 18 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: Nice route, maybe a bit contrived at the top. I thought the crux in the top scoop was 5b, and found the awkward moves round the bulge at half-height harder and just as bold. Having a long reach probably helps for the top move though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Nice route, maybe a bit contrived at the top. I thought the crux in the top scoop was 5b, and found the awkward moves round the bulge at half-height harder and just as bold. Having a long reach probably helps for the top move though. |
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Furzy Sleight | 4 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Well, in reply to Mike Raine: That move at the top (the no hands rockover) is definately 5B/C and at that point the only gear (one cam) is way below you, so i would call that E2/3 (Harder than "three steps to heaven"!!!!!) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Well, in reply to Mike Raine: That move at the top (the no hands rockover) is definately 5B/C and at that point the only gear (one cam) is way below you, so i would call that E2/3 (Harder than "three steps to heaven"!!!!!) |
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nige pacer | 4 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: The combination of the two routes in the database is a shame, making the comments confusing. Great Route though(the E2 that is). | βeta? | |
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βeta: The combination of the two routes in the database is a shame, making the comments confusing. Great Route though(the E2 that is). |
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Mark Stevenson | 8 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: Backed off this (was leading f7a+ day before) so can't imagine it's E1. Will return when feeling suitably pysched. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Backed off this (was leading f7a+ day before) so can't imagine it's E1. Will return when feeling suitably pysched. |
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Jon Stewart | 5 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: If this was graded E1 5a, I'd have a crack at it and get the shock of my life. | βeta? | |
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βeta: If this was graded E1 5a, I'd have a crack at it and get the shock of my life. |
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The Pylon King | 10 May, 2003 |
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βeta: Very nice run out and balancy. camtastic! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very nice run out and balancy. camtastic! |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)