Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The leaning crack is jammed to a poor rest at the break. Build a bomb-shelter then make the crucial precarious layback moves up and left to reach a ladder of jugs. A great contender for your first grit E1, and this one won't be down-graded. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown Apr/1949.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , Eastern Grit Jamming , The Peak: Past and Present , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , World Graded List , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , AMC Uni Ticklist , 50 of the Best , MUMC Ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Stanage Plantation , Classic Lobs , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , York University Students path to greatness , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets. , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , 2021 Ticklist , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , 1964 Stanage Guide Extremes , 100 Best Routes on Grit , The Wishlist Challenge , Ones to smash out! , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Loz’ Peaks Wishlist , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Peak grit , Eastern Grit E1s , Dewimpification , The Eal List , Original and best stanage extremes , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , Stanage 3 star E1s , Top 25 routes , UKC Gritstone Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Stanage 1956
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| slacky | 20 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: Not clean this time but really enjoyed taking the fall, less cam faff and getting feet wide and being in balance next time. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Not clean this time but really enjoyed taking the fall, less cam faff and getting feet wide and being in balance next time. |
||||
| Gspot | 22 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: At the crux, pocket to the right takes two fingers and is much more usable than looks from below. Frees up the left hand to reach up higher. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: At the crux, pocket to the right takes two fingers and is much more usable than looks from below. Frees up the left hand to reach up higher. |
||||
| Ben Rowland | 7 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice, learning to jam helped, barn door move was fun:)) | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Nice, learning to jam helped, barn door move was fun:)) |
||||
| Blake | 4 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: These routes are looking a bit ruined now to me. Damaged cam placements, sugary damaged grit and polish. Queues of people taking repeated lobs of them both like indoor sport routes. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: These routes are looking a bit ruined now to me. Damaged cam placements, sugary damaged grit and polish. Queues of people taking repeated lobs of them both like indoor sport routes. |
||||
| Pythonist | 6 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Perfect gear, and even for those of us that avoided jamming anything, it's a good 'n. Right is far better, though. E1 5b sounds exactly right. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Perfect gear, and even for those of us that avoided jamming anything, it's a good 'n. Right is far better, though. E1 5b sounds exactly right. |
||||
| ericinbristol | 23 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Harder than Right U, more sustained and knackering than Right U. Perfect gear all the way. A mega classic | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Harder than Right U, more sustained and knackering than Right U. Perfect gear all the way. A mega classic |
||||
| ian bryant | 2 Jan, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: easier and far less strenuous than its right hand counterpart | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: easier and far less strenuous than its right hand counterpart |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Promontory Traverse
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Black Rocks)