Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the front of the pillar then move right for an exposed and powerful finish via a crack that splits the nose. © Rockfax

FA. Les Gillott early 1960s.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Severe Stanage , Stanage HVS Challenge , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
PaulJepson 15 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Holly has been chopped and route is in a good climbable state.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Holly has been chopped and route is in a good climbable state.
193 20 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: coming in from the chimney on the right is only viable option with the state of the encroaching holly
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: coming in from the chimney on the right is only viable option with the state of the encroaching holly
Guy Atkinson 1 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Holly bush getting very large, could do with some gardening to stop it taking over the bottom of the route entirely.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Holly bush getting very large, could do with some gardening to stop it taking over the bottom of the route entirely.

Logged Ascents

192 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 52
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 46
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Blurter

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage North)

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