Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The attractive angular arete. Climb the short crack and lower arete, then step awkwardly up onto the main arete which is followed past a couple of steeper moves at half-height. © Rockfax
FA. Geoffry Sutton 1958.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Aither | 31 Oct, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hard for a HS and brave too. But a good route | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Hard for a HS and brave too. But a good route |
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| howlingbaboon | 5 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice climb and easy on the arms when you're pumped from lay-backing and jamming round the corner. The easy slab section on the front face is slightly run-out, plenty of gear in the breaks. A big cam goes in the break before the nicly exposed crux on the arete. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Nice climb and easy on the arms when you're pumped from lay-backing and jamming round the corner. The easy slab section on the front face is slightly run-out, plenty of gear in the breaks. A big cam goes in the break before the nicly exposed crux on the arete. |
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| Si dH | 12 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: There are bomber nuts and small/medium cams for all the tricky parts, the rets is very easy although run-out in the middle. Fair at HS. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There are bomber nuts and small/medium cams for all the tricky parts, the rets is very easy although run-out in the middle. Fair at HS. |
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| Monk | 14 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: A good route with some reasonable run outs to get you thinking if you are close to your limits. Harder than I expected as the '89 guide has it at Severe! I didn't use any large cams though, I protected the crux with a nut in the break. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A good route with some reasonable run outs to get you thinking if you are close to your limits. Harder than I expected as the '89 guide has it at Severe! I didn't use any large cams though, I protected the crux with a nut in the break. |
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| rob k | 28 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: James has this absoutely right. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: James has this absoutely right. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Upper Tor Wall
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)