Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
Excellent stuff. Starting from left or right, climb the parallel cracks until they become one, then take the continuation to the top. A well protected and a popular climb for pushing the grade and honing the jamming. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stan , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , York University Students path to greatness , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , LSMC to do , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge , Grit Starred routes aspirations 2023 , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
EA_Mountain_Skills 8 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Quality. Early gear is a good idea. Plenty of cam placements available.
Show beta
βeta: Quality. Early gear is a good idea. Plenty of cam placements available.
PaulJepson 2 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The block which you monkey on to get over to the twin cracks is loose. Get some early gear in!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The block which you monkey on to get over to the twin cracks is loose. Get some early gear in!
Diverrobster 29 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: In 1997 When I climbed this it was graded VS 4c
βeta?
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βeta: In 1997 When I climbed this it was graded VS 4c
JohnHutch 26 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Beautiful! (but 4c is a bit OTT)
βeta?
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βeta: Beautiful! (but 4c is a bit OTT)
sheffieldchris 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: do this route if you are just starting on vs or it's a sunny sunday and you just want to cruise up and use ever bit of gear you own soft at vs but 3 star all the way
βeta?
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βeta: do this route if you are just starting on vs or it's a sunny sunday and you just want to cruise up and use ever bit of gear you own soft at vs but 3 star all the way
Lizard 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Would make an excellent first VS. Easy to place protection all the way. Low in the grade but steep enough to warrant it. Well worth doing.
βeta?
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βeta: Would make an excellent first VS. Easy to place protection all the way. Low in the grade but steep enough to warrant it. Well worth doing.
leon 9 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: not that hard but so what, its fun
βeta?
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βeta: not that hard but so what, its fun
The old James turnbull 8 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: probably about the right grade, just low for it. defo 3 stars though, was easy but execellent fun
βeta?
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βeta: probably about the right grade, just low for it. defo 3 stars though, was easy but execellent fun
shaun walby 28 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Think its worth the 3 stars but dont know about the 4c poss 4b.
βeta?
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βeta: Think its worth the 3 stars but dont know about the 4c poss 4b.
Dale Berry 8 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Watch out at the top for some VERY dodgy wire placements for anchors. Theres a crack that looks like its been used for lots of 'em where half of it wobbles by about 2-3"! More secure stuff is further back. Over graded, over starred, but still nice, if not quite paradise.
βeta?
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βeta: Watch out at the top for some VERY dodgy wire placements for anchors. Theres a crack that looks like its been used for lots of 'em where half of it wobbles by about 2-3"! More secure stuff is further back. Over graded, over starred, but still nice, if not quite paradise.
gav p 15 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely HS. 4b moves, numerous good rests and you can place your whole rack if you want. Nevertheless, a brilliant route on big jugs all the way. Worth the three stars.
βeta?
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βeta: Definitely HS. 4b moves, numerous good rests and you can place your whole rack if you want. Nevertheless, a brilliant route on big jugs all the way. Worth the three stars.
Nick Smith - Climbers 16 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A lovely route, deserving its 3-stars, but yes, probably HS rather than VS.
βeta?
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βeta: A lovely route, deserving its 3-stars, but yes, probably HS rather than VS.
EarlyBird 31 Mar, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Bit of a mystery this one. Prior to the publication of Peak Gritstone East there seemed to be a strong argument for downgrading this route to HS...and yet it has gone into the guide well up the VS graded list. Weird.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bit of a mystery this one. Prior to the publication of Peak Gritstone East there seemed to be a strong argument for downgrading this route to HS...and yet it has gone into the guide well up the VS graded list. Weird.
VisionSet 2 Jan, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: For me, the most overgraded grit VS on Eastern Grit. Superbly protected, completely unsustained, with a short bit of 4b near the top.
βeta?
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βeta: For me, the most overgraded grit VS on Eastern Grit. Superbly protected, completely unsustained, with a short bit of 4b near the top.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 507
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 471
Votes cast 456
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Brown's Crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Bamford Edge)

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