Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb the horizontally-cracked slab up its centre. The well protected crux move is at the steepening. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Veale 1978.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Plantation , Stanage Slab
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jimbo C | 16 Sep, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyed this. Couple of good matleshelves and some fun 'trust your feet' moves on the slabs above good gear. felt a bit easier than 5a | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Enjoyed this. Couple of good matleshelves and some fun 'trust your feet' moves on the slabs above good gear. felt a bit easier than 5a |
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| Fidget | 2 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Quite a pleasing route, flows well. Just the right amount of pro, and in just the right places (I have a tendency to place gear wherever it's available, routes like this are good where there aren't unecessary placements so you can concentrate on the moves instead). Definately best without the aretes, and it's not too hard to avoid them. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Quite a pleasing route, flows well. Just the right amount of pro, and in just the right places (I have a tendency to place gear wherever it's available, routes like this are good where there aren't unecessary placements so you can concentrate on the moves instead). Definately best without the aretes, and it's not too hard to avoid them. |
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| Mutl3y | 26 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I really enjoyed this and found nothing artificial in avoiding the arete. Just go up the middle of the slab. Crux for me was the first mantleshelf. Overgraded. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I really enjoyed this and found nothing artificial in avoiding the arete. Just go up the middle of the slab. Crux for me was the first mantleshelf. Overgraded. |
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| leon | 9 Apr, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: enjoyed the route. the crux is safe and satisfying to complete. i can see how ya might think avoiding the arete is artificial but you don't need 'em | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: enjoyed the route. the crux is safe and satisfying to complete. i can see how ya might think avoiding the arete is artificial but you don't need 'em |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Hawk's Nest Crack
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Froggatt Edge)