There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The right arete has runners just below the crux, but that is a fair way off the ground. Finish as for The Right Unconquerable. © Rockfax
FA. Ernie Marshall 1981.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Days of the Week , A Week in the Peak
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Graham Hoey | 16 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: It is possible to finish right of the direct finish to RU to make it more independent. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It is possible to finish right of the direct finish to RU to make it more independent. |
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Pythonist | 31 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fairly constant 5a/b climbing with just about adequate gear - though not really bold... Easy E2. However, this is the first route I think I've ever got to the top of, thinking it wasn't a good climb... The whole thing feels totally artificial, due to being far easier if you take a half-step left / right. It either needs to be described as an eliminate (no ledge/chimney) just on the arete's left-hand side, or be re-graded to include a sensible climb moving around the arete, and using the good high holds in the chimney (which can still be reached from a position in front of the arete) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Fairly constant 5a/b climbing with just about adequate gear - though not really bold... Easy E2. However, this is the first route I think I've ever got to the top of, thinking it wasn't a good climb... The whole thing feels totally artificial, due to being far easier if you take a half-step left / right. It either needs to be described as an eliminate (no ledge/chimney) just on the arete's left-hand side, or be re-graded to include a sensible climb moving around the arete, and using the good high holds in the chimney (which can still be reached from a position in front of the arete) |
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Si dH | 11 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I 2nded this but thoguht the small friend placements, which I investigated quite abit, to eb utterly rubbish in the seocond break, meaning a big deckout if you come off the first hard moves (at about 2/3 height) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I 2nded this but thoguht the small friend placements, which I investigated quite abit, to eb utterly rubbish in the seocond break, meaning a big deckout if you come off the first hard moves (at about 2/3 height) |
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The old James turnbull | 26 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: with small friends you can get quite alot of gear in, not really run out but all feels bit off balance making it only just(maybe) E2. hardest part felt like the top out as for right unconquerable! really enjoyed it 2 stars i reckon | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: with small friends you can get quite alot of gear in, not really run out but all feels bit off balance making it only just(maybe) E2. hardest part felt like the top out as for right unconquerable! really enjoyed it 2 stars i reckon |
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Coel Hellier | 18 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Crux well protected? I didn't trust the marginal cams and escaped into the chimney. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Crux well protected? I didn't trust the marginal cams and escaped into the chimney. |
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The Pylon King | 21 May, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: nice arete moves.shame about that awful finish! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: nice arete moves.shame about that awful finish! |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)