Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

8m.

Rockfax Description
The parallel cracks just left of the corner are awkward. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Stanage Diffs , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage 'Difficults' , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Allan Winstanley 21 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Never a VD! Severe 4a?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Never a VD! Severe 4a?
Mutl3y 30 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This was my first lead, well my first lead that I managed to get any gear in. Gear was good, well spaced, and I really enjoyed it. Maybe a bit stiff for a diff, but it's hard to judge the difference at this grade, what?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This was my first lead, well my first lead that I managed to get any gear in. Gear was good, well spaced, and I really enjoyed it. Maybe a bit stiff for a diff, but it's hard to judge the difference at this grade, what?
mwh 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I didn't really work this one out. There's definitely a bit that's hard for a Diff, and there's that Mod a yard to the right...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I didn't really work this one out. There's definitely a bit that's hard for a Diff, and there's that Mod a yard to the right...
Nick Smith - Climbers 23 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A bit tricky for a Diff I thought - more like VDiff or HVD even. Takes loads of gear though (which makes it a good one if you are teaching someone to lead).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A bit tricky for a Diff I thought - more like VDiff or HVD even. Takes loads of gear though (which makes it a good one if you are teaching someone to lead).

Logged Ascents

591 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 45 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 45
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Heaven Crack

Grade: VD ***
(Stanage Popular)

Loading Notifications...