Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

20m.

Rockfax Description
The square-cut corner is climbed via the awkward left-hand crack to the top of the flakes. The right-hand crack is a good off-width problem. Continue up the groove passing the exposed chockstone to the easier upper gully and an exit. A finish out left as for Doncaster's Route is a more open and trickier option. © Rockfax

FA. Henry Bishop et al. c.1914.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Severe Stanage , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Otto Sump 1 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: And up the crack on the left
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: And up the crack on the left
rob k 1 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: good route - just about worthy of two stars - I enjoyed it very much; friends who have only just started to lead this grade had a good time but said they found the start required some effort...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: good route - just about worthy of two stars - I enjoyed it very much; friends who have only just started to lead this grade had a good time but said they found the start required some effort...
Simon Caldwell 17 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Don't remember smearing at all, the bottom section was mostly a layback. I thought it was a really nice route, especially finishing outside the chockstone at the top. Only the easy middle section stops it getting a third star.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't remember smearing at all, the bottom section was mostly a layback. I thought it was a really nice route, especially finishing outside the chockstone at the top. Only the easy middle section stops it getting a third star.
gav p 2 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Awkward moves, some of them smearing on slightly green grit as it doesn't get much sun. Tails off higher up. Didn't enjoy it.
Show beta
βeta: Awkward moves, some of them smearing on slightly green grit as it doesn't get much sun. Tails off higher up. Didn't enjoy it.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 70
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 65
Votes cast 62
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Brown's Crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Bamford Edge)

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