Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb the right-hand edge of the slab then reach the hanging groove by a traverse from the right. Enter it by a puzzling layback sequence then bung in some gear and sprint to safety. The hardest of the old Stanage Extremes. © Rockfax
FA. Pat Fearneough 1961-63.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , 1964 Stanage Guide Extremes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Original and best stanage extremes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Blake | 12 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Just about getting in the red zone when decent gear and holds finally come. I took a couple of ‘ledge sweepers’ before I worked the crux out, after crux I reckon I’d have been picking bilberries out my arse. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Just about getting in the red zone when decent gear and holds finally come. I took a couple of ‘ledge sweepers’ before I worked the crux out, after crux I reckon I’d have been picking bilberries out my arse. |
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| GeorgiePorgie1 | 10 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Agreed with the long reach to enter the groove and you can't cheat your way around it either! Right hand jam as far left as possible before the reach helps! My partner complained about the jams being tough to establish, but I thought they were pretty solid. Perhaps is down to hand size, as it usually is. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Agreed with the long reach to enter the groove and you can't cheat your way around it either! Right hand jam as far left as possible before the reach helps! My partner complained about the jams being tough to establish, but I thought they were pretty solid. Perhaps is down to hand size, as it usually is. |
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| NuclearNev | 29 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The crux starting move from the break is manicly reachy. Im 5'9" and could only reach the lower part of the layback hold (which i subsequently let go of when i fell off). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The crux starting move from the break is manicly reachy. Im 5'9" and could only reach the lower part of the layback hold (which i subsequently let go of when i fell off). |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Ashop Crack
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)