Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
On the boulder below and to the left of the route Cinturato, climb the rampline up and left to finish at the apex of the boulder. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
On the boulder below and to the left of Cinturato, climb the rampline diagonally up and left to finish at the apex of the boulder.
FA. Sam Lawson 2020.
Ticklists
Peak district Bouldering Super strength 7C - 8A , Carlos Projects , Peel's Primo Projects
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| local legend andy t | 29 Dec, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: It's not limestone lad calm down x) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: It's not limestone lad calm down x) |
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| Don Jebus | 27 Nov, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Looking at the videos of people doing this, there's a lot of cops outs. This is an eliminate, you have to go to the furthest left hand hold and hit the apex of the boulder. See the video of Ash doing it. If you rock out a couple of moves earlier it's a previous 7B+ I think by Ian Farrar. Also agree with this being 7C | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Looking at the videos of people doing this, there's a lot of cops outs. This is an eliminate, you have to go to the furthest left hand hold and hit the apex of the boulder. See the video of Ash doing it. If you rock out a couple of moves earlier it's a previous 7B+ I think by Ian Farrar. Also agree with this being 7C |
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| Don Jebus | 19 Dec, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: One of the pebbles (on the arete used for right foot in Ash video) for feet has come off which makes the start a bit harder, now you have to use small pebbles on the face | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: One of the pebbles (on the arete used for right foot in Ash video) for feet has come off which makes the start a bit harder, now you have to use small pebbles on the face |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
The Pinch
Grade: f7C ***
(Crag X (Derbyshire))